Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cap Rock - North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anniversary Special T 
Ayatollah, The T 
Black Ice T 
Bush Eviction T 
Circus T 
Circus, Circus T 
Event Horizon T 
False Lieback T 
False Prophet T 
Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 
Lil Squirt S 
Nutcracker T 
Retirement T 
Space Odyssey T 

Nutcracker 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Rob Stahl, Dave Stahl, John Wolfe & Mona Wolfe, March 1971
Page Views: 1,376
Submitted By: Blitzo on May 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Shannon leading Nutcracker.

Description 

This climbs a crack to a chimney about 20' right of "Event Horizon".

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Nutcracker Slideshow Add Photo
"Nutcracker". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Nutcracker". Photo by Blitzo.
Ten year old Emil on the lower portion of Nutcrack...
Ten year old Emil on the lower portion of Nutcrack...
Anne setting up a belay for my 10 year old son Emi...
Anne setting up a belay for my 10 year old son Emi...
Anne Carrier leading Nutcracker.
Anne Carrier leading Nutcracker.
Good sidelighting accentuates the cracks on the ro...
BETA PHOTO: Good sidelighting accentuates the cracks on the ro...

Comments on Nutcracker Add Comment
Show which comments
By Doug99
Dec 9, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

No way this is 5.2. 5.5 easily.

A variation is the "Birthing Canal". Go to the back of the cave at the top chimney and climb straight up. Don't try this if you aren't skinny.
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 12, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Excellent beginner climb with my 10 year old son; varied in nature and not too hard. Short but fun. By the way, I also agree with Doug99 about the grade--a bit stiffer than a 5.2 on the lower portion of the route. Maybe not 5.5, but at least 5.4.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Apr 6, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A C4 #6 can be slid up the wide crack at the top for a ways (but the rock walls of the crack are a bit grungy). I thought the crux was the short section just before gaining the traverse crack to the ledge below the wide crack. The wide crack was tricky and more of a mind game, but the holds were there for the most part. The lower section is easy and fun, great for a novice leader to climb, place pro, and downclimb if they have a more experienced partner to climb up it afterward and evaluate their gear and finish out the climb.
By Mary Moser
May 22, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

The first half of the climb was a really nice crack and the traverse was fun too. However, this climb is definitely harder than 5.2 and the chimney section above may be scary for a beginner due to the lack of pro. My friend Shannon did an excellent job keeping her head about her as she ran out the chimney. She did use the equivalent of a #5 Camalot at the start of the chimney, but above that there was no more pro.
By verticalbound
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

Lol consensus is spot on, took my girlfriend on all the begginer routes and trashcan so I got a solid feel for lower grades, soloed this behind someone cleaning it and we both agree 5.3 is solid.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 15, 2014

I didn't go in the chimney, I climbed the righthand rib, with small cam in a horizontal crack on the right for protection. This way I felt had a 5.8 move.

It's a good climb.