Nutcracker  5.10a PG13

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Type:  Trad, 90 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Aaron Hobson on Apr 24, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Charlie Cundiff slotting his fingers where a wired...

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Description 

An excellent line leading up through an intimidating thin dihedral, and ending on a long finger-crack/corner. The dihedral start is the crux and while the moves don't feel terribly difficult, they are committing and on small/suspect gear, considering the rock quality of the crag. Still, if you're looking for a gutsy lead in the low 5.10s than this climb is it!

Location 

Located directly behind a tall straight tree, this thin seam/dihedral is easy to spot. Dennis Jackson's guide describes starting to the left 12 ft, in an easier looking corner. This may be an alternate start which avoids the nerve-wracking dihedral, but I feel sure that the original route tackles the dihedral.

Protection 

A small/mid sized wire protects the crux-dihedral, and is fairly easy to place. However, it also fills in one of the few spots in the dihedral that you can fit your fingers into. You can stare at the small wire as you commit to the 5.10a moves, just don't fall to test that pro out! The rest of the climb protects with small-mid sized wires and cams.