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Nut Rack: Peenuts, Alloy Offsets, WC Superlight Rocks
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By Dylan Dwyer
From Missouri
Feb 19, 2013
after OS soloing the first flat iron, direct route

I've been using the DMM wallnuts and I like them okay. They don't seem to fit everywhere, a little better than BD stoppers. from using offset mastercams I see how many places would take offset nuts better than normal curved nuts. I climb in missouri where limestone is capable of any formation you can think of... the DMM alloy offsets are sweet and the biggest size is the biggest size I like to place anyway. as far as the DMM Peenuts, also offset (slightly), i haven't tried them but go two sizes smaller than the Wallnuts. It seems that this would not be an adequate rack of nuts since neither are ideal for parallel constrictions (thinking of the 3points of contact thing).

So because of this I am thinking the Wild Country Superlight rocks would make for an excellent rack. These are the ones with one cable but can be set offset or normal, this seems awesome. My qualm with these however is that they are rated for about half the strength of the wallnuts (4-6kn). Is that sufficient? What does anyone else think about this? if i were to follow through with this plan of action i would get rid of my wallnuts and pick up a couple of my bootied nuts. This set up would give me ~16 nuts that weigh less than the 8 wallnuts i use now. (I don't aid climb) thanks for the opinons!


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By Tradoholic
Feb 19, 2013

I have a set, nice small nuts with unique design. I have lots of small gear so I will sell mine $50 with shipping. Not used much never fallen on.


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By Rafael Rovirosa
From Las Cruces, NM
Feb 19, 2013

I would keep the Wallnuts. I think the superlights are awesome but they are a specialty piece. 6 kN is pretty strong but 4 is cutting it close for gear meant to take falls. I would use the superlights only when you can't use anything else. My typical rack of nuts is a 1.5 set of Wallnuts and, if I expect flared placements, the alloy offsets and peenuts.


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By Derrick W
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 19, 2013

Rafael has no idea what he's talking about. I've taken 20 foot whippers on pieces rated to 3kN. Guess, who was belaying me...Rafael.


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By Wannabe
Feb 19, 2013

Hey Derrick,
How much rope was out when you were whipping and how dynamic a belay did Rafael give you? Just curious.

--Wannabe


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By The Ex-Engineer
From UK
Feb 19, 2013

My current rack includes Wallnuts, Alloy & Brass Offsets, Peanuts and WC Superlights.

Alongside a single set of Wallnuts and Alloy Offsets, I have Peanuts 3,4,5 and Superlights 4,5,6. That gives a superb and flexible standard rack of 22 nuts, however I generally strip out 2 or perhaps 3 of the larger sizes. My 'default' rack is therefore 19-20 nuts racked on 3 biners.

I rarely need any extra small wires or micros, but if I do want micros, I want the best. So for some routes I will add a full set of Brass Offsets on a separate biner. The fact I don't find they are that useful (and that Brass Offsets are better) is why I don't use the smallest Peanuts or Superlights.

I find the Superlights, especially sizes 5 & 6 absolutely great bits of kit in terms of placements. On many routes they will be placed on every pitch, but I generally use them in their 'offset' orientation (they are actually a bit fiddly to use in the 'normal' orientation). Unfortunately they are often hard to clean without bending the single wire which means they are very prone to frayed wires. I have had to replace several of mine over the years.

This lack of robustness combined with their high price means the Superlights are not good value for money compared to standard wires. However I will carry on replacing mine as I find they add welcome flexibility to my rack.

One thing I would say is that the Superlights feel like they are a half to full size smaller than compared with their numerical sizing. A Superlight 6 is not a proper replacement for a size 6 Wallnut and I would probably still want them both on my rack.

Getting back to the original questions -

Is that sufficient?

If you stick to sizes 4,5 & 6 the strength is sufficient. I have taken a reasonable fall on a size 5 with no problems.
[In the smaller sizes, 1&2 especially, they are arguably better and stronger (if heavier) options from DMM and BD. Durability and frayed wires are likely to be more of an issue than strength.]

What does anyone else think about this?

As mentioned, I'd still want a normal size 6 DMM Wallnut on the rack.

I think your proposed rack might have more small wires than I'd generally carry.

However, I'd be happy to swing leads using your proposed rack on most routes which is the only thing that really matters.


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By Derrick W
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 19, 2013

The fall wasn't harsh at all. There was probably 70 feet of rope out. Also, I was climbing on doubles so only one (skinny) rope caught the fall and it was a very soft catch. I just wanted to give Rafael some crap.

In all seriousness, you can fall on a 3kN brassie. As long as there's a decent amount of rope out and you have a good belay, it'll probably be fine. Being above such tiny pro still scares the s*** out of me every time.


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By bearbreeder
Feb 20, 2013

i use a full set of walnuts, full set of alum offsets, full set of peanuts and the 2 largest brass offsets

a few notes

- the difference in shape in the offsets and walnut is more important in the smaller sizes ... for larger sizes you can often get one or the other in ... but once the crack gets smaller its much more specific

- the peanut, despite the similar color coding, feel smaller than the equivalent walnut ... if you compare em this is due to the taper ... thus the fit can be quite different

- the alum offsets, peanuts and walnuts are very durable ... the brass offsets much less so, not because of the brass, but because the wire kinks very quickly as you can see below

the green (no longer green) has taken 20+ falls .... the large brass 1-2, yet the wires are already kinked



which leads to this



ive never owned the superlights, so i cant say how they work ... however if you are going to use your nuts every day at the crag, i suggest keeping the burlier walnuts ...

for alpine it may be a different choice


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By The Ex-Engineer
From UK
Feb 20, 2013

I found I still had a couple of photos:

Damage to a Superlight 2
Damage to a Superlight 2


Damage to a Superlight 5
Damage to a Superlight 5


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