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Jeff Arliss on the upper half of the first pitch, ...
Nurse's Aid in a nice climb that launches up the wall just left of Feast of Fools. The face below the roof is challenging -- there is a scary section in an orange plaque of rock that is very difficult to protect. From here, step left and continue up and through the massive roof. Considering Gunks grades, I found this roof to be quite reasonable at 5.10c. The pitch stops at the GT Ledge.
The second pitch continues up a left-facing overhanging corner system, but loose rock and lackluster climbing detract from its quality.
Jeff approaching the roof on pitch 1.
Looking back in the handcrack traverse at the top ...
Looking down from the crux of P2.
The second pitch, with the traverse at the top vis...
Unknown climber getting into the crux horizontal c...
Unknown climber now in the meat of the crux horizo...
Unknown climber getting over the crux horizontal c...
Unknown climber belaying his second, who is just a...
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b PG13
Great 2nd pitch. Do not miss it. Stay on the overhanging cracks 3-5 feet right of the easy corner. Fantastic finish (Blue cam helpful to protect the traverse)
|By Denis O'Connor|
Aug 6, 2009
I agree, Paul. I think Josh might have traversed off the second pitch a little early, underneath the great crack, without knowing what he was missing. It would be easy to do because it's invisible from below and an unlikely line. I can't imagine anyone would describe that traverse as "lackluster."
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 13, 2009
Ok, I seconded this climb and found the transition from the little corner out onto the traverse quite hard. I am short and felt like it was a HUGE reach to get around the nose on the traverse itself. Once there, I felt reasonably secure, as I did the traverse in frog position. I had my hands on the horizontal and my feet on the wall like a frog. Slow moving, but, it worked.
To me, this was the scariest climb I have ever done. I felt like i was going to wing off into space. I knew that if I fell on the traverse, I would never get back on the wall.
Jun 19, 2010
rating: 5.10c PG13
I have specific gear beta if anyone wants it for the run out section.
Jul 23, 2010
Don't Read if you dont want just a hint of beta; anyone climbing with a "standard Gunks Rack" can protect the scary part!
|By colin rickert|
From: Ottawa, ON
Apr 29, 2012
rating: 5.10c R
In spite of being told I could protect the blank face below the roof, I have no idea how you would place any decent gear at the runout section (and believe me I tried). Sure you can get a flared cam with a couple lobes scratching the sides of hold you need to do the move or you can just run it out through the techie face to the jug (why even bother with gear?) - keep your eyes peeled here for hidden crimps just before the jug and hidden feet to your side. DO NOT FORGET to bring purple/grey metolius and/or purple/blue alien (i.e. tiny gear) to protect the traverse just after the techie runout - that was a "Thank God" moment for me and helped me keep my cool to send the route.
|By Pete Wilk|
May 21, 2012
Awesome route from bottom to top. The first pitch is great stuff pulling through the roofs. The second pitch was my first 5.10a at the Gunks and wow! The technical crux of the pitch for me was 15 feet or so below the hand traverse, but the traverse was definitely the mental crux. A number 2 camalot was the largest piece I had, which still worked but I really would have appreciated a #3. It didn't really have any chalk on the second pitch so I was constantly wondering if I was on route and if there would be holds/pro around the next corner.