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Nurse Hook  

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 610
Submitted By: 20 kN on Nov 15, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Nurses Hook


This is the route directly to the left of Dr. Hook. Itís mostly a face climb with a little dihedral climbing at the top and crack climbing in the middle. The crux is 2rds of the way up. The route shares anchors with Dr. hook. Bring a #2 Camalot for the horizontal crack up top or run it out 25' over 5.8 moves. There are also placements for a #0.75, #1 and a few others.

Variation: Nurse Hook Direct; instead of starting on the left, by New Year's Crack, start more or less under the first bolt and head straight up the face. The variation is only relevant to the first bolt, after that you're on the standard Nurse Hook Line.


Sport less a small runout at the top which can be tamed by a #2 Camalot in a horizontal.

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By Matt Nelson
From: Pueblo, CO
Feb 25, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A very fun, well protected route. If you not comfortable leading at this grade, then definitely try it on top rope.
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