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 ADVANCED
The Cathedral
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock T 
Celestial Ascension T 
Devil Tree T 
John Doe 3 T,S 
Karmic Trace T 
Mission Impossible T,TR 
Monogamy S,TR 
Nuptial Vow S,TR 
Oracle T 
Painted Bird T 
Skinny Len Crimps S 
Son of Slab S 
Swamp Cooler T 

Nuptial Vow 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: L. Ellison, P. Scannell, B. Smoot - Sans Bolts, 1983
Page Views: 1,881
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 26, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: 1) Skinny Len Crimps 2) Mission Impossible 3) ...

Description 

This climbs the right bolt line on the far west end of the North face of the Cathedral. Did you get all of that? It climbs a horizontally cracked face with small but juggy overhangs.

Protection 

2 bolts are up top for the anchors and 4 draws for the climb. However, these bolts are, I believe 1/4 inch buttonheads with home made hangers. Be careful, or use some gear. Bolt 2 made no sense, and I didn't clip it.


Photos of Nuptial Vow Slideshow Add Photo
Her first "overhang"
Her first "overhang"
NE Cathedral w/o lines
BETA PHOTO: NE Cathedral w/o lines
Rox on TR
Rox on TR
Alec leading.
Alec leading.
Rappelling down Nupital Vow
Rappelling down Nupital Vow

Comments on Nuptial Vow Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul S
From: Fruita, CO
Feb 3, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nice beginner sport lines, be careful on the first mantle which is the crux of this 5.7.
By philfell
From: Olympic Valley, CA
May 23, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

All the old suspect bolts have been replaced, with new shiney ones. Also there is a new top anchor placed below the top lip of the climb. This prevents your rope from grinding over the edge as you're being lowered.
By Jake Richens
From: Sl, ut
Aug 29, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Gear Alert
Nice bolts, well spaced. The second clip is nicely hung but with huge holds, but I'd advise staying about 1and a 1/2 feet to the left of the 2nd bolt to avoid some rounded edges.

#2 is a spinner
By jon
Sep 1, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route not hard, but defintely worth trying
By bsmoot
Jun 22, 2009

This route was originally led with trad gear only. No bolts were placed on the first ascent.
By Joel R. Andersen
From: SLC, Utah
Jul 21, 2009

I love this canyon and it's a great canyon for getting away from the sun on hot days.
By Brian in SLC
Sep 28, 2009

So, Brian, what say ye about the bolts, then? Ok or not?
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This turned out to be a really fun romp when done FA-style without the bolts. I placed a number of bomber micro-cams up high and placements abound if you stray a bit off the bolt line and use long runners. The gear down low is slightly less inspiring but there are some good options. I think a #1 can be used up high but a rack of microcams up to a .5 is sufficient.
Still worth a PG and probably not for the 5.8 leader.
By Nick Meinzer
From: Mountain Green
Jun 30, 2014

Ahh the great Sans Bolts! He put up a lot of first ascents around here until his untimely demise in a hammer drill accident...