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The crux slanting crack.
|Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>|
Start just to the right of the small buttress of Pincushion
, above a large pine tree. Climb up to a small, right-facing dihedral, then move right and up to a thin crack on the face. Follow the crack until it ends. There are three options: we moved right to a small, dirty, mossy, and polished corner. You can also climb straight up on clean, but unprotected, face moves. It may be easiest to move left to an obvious crack. In any case, belay on a good ledge above. The next pitch starts with easy face climbing to a ledge in an alcove thirty feet up. Climb the right-slanting crack (5.9) on the left side of this alcove. A short, easy pitch up the cracks above takes you to the top. (An alternative start may be possible thirty feet to the right, where a thin crack leads to a rusty old bolt.)
To descend, walk left (east) and descend as for Pincushion
Scramble up to the large face immediately to the right of the Hanging Block buttress.
Traversing right on pitch 1.
Looking down on the upper crack of pitch 1.