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Slavery Wall
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Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome S 
Burden of Immortality, The S 
Calm Like A Bomb S 
Colors of Heaven S 
Crown Prince Abdullah S 
EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle S 
Goldmember S 
Happiness in Slavery S 
Head Like a Hole S 
Heart, Balls and Swagger S 
Jackabite S 
Kablamo! S 
Mommas Mental Medication S 
Number One Enemy S 
Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich) S 
Papa Knows Best S 
School's Out S 
Screaming Night Hog S 
Shake Your Money Maker S 
Strut Your Funky Stuff S 
Superfly S 
Wagon Wheel of Death S 

Number One Enemy 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: A.Huey, 2009
Season: Faces East
Page Views: 423
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 20, 2011

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Number One Enemy and Shake Your Money Maker

Description 

A very good climb, somehow overlooked for a long time. This is a break from the good, but standard fare of the area, climbing up a seam of intermittent cracks on strange cling and side-pulls rather than pockets and edges. The change is a good one, producing a great climb. It was, however, over-rated at 11a in the 2011 Ten Sleep book. The grade is not that hard, and should be more consistent with area mid-5.10 climbs.
Step up and left odd of a dirty bank and pass a single bolt, climbing upwards and slightly left past 2 more bolts. Between bolts #2 and #3 head strongly left into a shallow intermittent crack and several more bolts. Climb more or less directly up this feature for 50+ more feet to a good anchor.


Location 

This route is around onto the E/NE-facing sidewall of Slavery Wall and climbs up and left into a very apparent finger-crack like system, onward on the right past a trail of darker stone, and to a fixed anchor.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



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