Number One Enemy
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Number One Enemy and Shake Your Money Maker
A very good climb, somehow overlooked for a long time. This is a break from the good, but standard fare of the area, climbing up a seam of intermittent cracks on strange cling and side-pulls rather than pockets and edges. The change is a good one, producing a great climb. It was, however, over-rated at 11a in the 2011 Ten Sleep book. The grade is not that hard, and should be more consistent with area mid-5.10 climbs.
Step up and left odd of a dirty bank and pass a single bolt, climbing upwards and slightly left past 2 more bolts. Between bolts #2 and #3 head strongly left into a shallow intermittent crack and several more bolts. Climb more or less directly up this feature for 50+ more feet to a good anchor.
This route is around onto the E/NE-facing sidewall of Slavery Wall and climbs up and left into a very apparent finger-crack like system, onward on the right past a trail of darker stone, and to a fixed anchor.
8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Number One Enemy. Aug '14.