|Main Wall, left side
The bolted dihedral left of Sagitarius and Iron Horse. Starts out with a SUPER technical crux using horribly small gastons, pinscars and smears for opposition. All the campusing power in the world won't get you off the ground on this thing. The body tension/insecurity fest continues to another crux pulling the first roof, then eases for a bit of very fun 10/11ish face climbing until the final crux, involving shallow locks and high steps through a small roof. Amazing!
Amandla, the 13b/c arete climb, follows Numbah 10 for the first 5 bolts, then breaks right.
I gave this a generic "5.12." The books give it 12b, which is a laughable sandbag; Index is burly, for sure. I'm not suggesting a rating change above because: a) I haven't redpointed it and b) who cares? But if your ego hurts after this one, just remember how much fun the route is and that it would be a 5.12c or d anywhere else.
12 bolts to anchors. Stick clip the second bolt if you like your face and ankles.
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I brought a wire brush and gave Numbah Ten a good scrubbing the other day, removing some moss and a large huckleberry bush in the process. This route is amazing, but needs more traffic, especially on the upper half.
It seems like the first couple bolts do a horrible job of protecting the climber on the hardest moves - maybe they are a remnant of where old aid bolts or pins were? Anyhow, using a 4' sling from bolt #2 allows for a good clips from stances, though obviously it makes this a less heady start.
Aug 15, 2012
In the past I've taken the annoying fall trying to stand out on my left foot on the 'clipping stance' edge in the corner, but never while I was actually clipping the second bolt. The latter scenario could have unhappy results, so stick clipping the second bolt is probably actually a good idea. That said, I never seem to have one on hand when I want to lead this climb and end up just going for it. I would say that the bolts protect the entry move but most definitely not the second clip and great caution should be taken with it!
|By C Miller|
Aug 3, 2013
Flashed by Peter Mayfield in 1990. Local Max Dufford commented "It figures that it would be done by a Californian - who else but a granite climber would know those kinds of moves?" (Climbing Magazine #121).