Numb From The Waist Down
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This was the first route on the main cliff to catch my eye. An excellent climb, though commiting for a 10a (could be dangerous if you don't keep it together after the crux).
Climb unprotected rock to the first bolt (not too hard, but keeps your attention). Climb up to the overlap and clip the next bolt before pulling up over it (technical crux). So far so good, now comes the question...commit or retreat. Climb the steep face up and left with no protection in sight for 15-20 feet until you can find a small pocket and the climbing eases to 5.7. Continue to the top and 2 bolt anchor.
To the right of Natural High. Look for an obvious overlap w/ a bolt on it.
A couple of draws for the bolts, and a standard rack. Stoppers and/or small aliens protect after the runout.
From: Newmarket, NH
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
I agree baldy, I did this climb in the spring and remember climbing above the bolt at the overlap thinking that I didn't want to blow it. Fun route.