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 ADVANCED
Nuclear Reactor Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chernobyl Crack T 
Helicopter Memory Farts T 
Nuclear Winter TR 
Nuke the Poodles TR 
Nuke the Whales T 
Stan And Ollie T 
We''ll Get Them Little Pricks (AKA Cunning Linquist) T 

Nuke the Whales 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,023
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Murf on Nuke the Whales.

Description 

Approach by either walking right past the main face of Nuclear Reactor Rock, then left into a corridor around the east side. About midway down the corridor, Nuke the Whales is the left of two obvious cracks.

Alternate approach from the entrance to Conan's Corridor: from the entrance (facing into the corridor), turn left and boulder hop through a small pass. Above, turn right again and head north. The large dome to the NNW is Nuclear Reactor Rock. Head directly to the corridor.

Start with overhanging moves to a stance, beware the initial big jug is somewhat loose. From the stance climb offwidth crack by using a finger/thin hand crack. The jams are supplemented by face holds left, which help keep the difficulty down.

Easy descent climbers right.


Protection 

Basic JT Rack.



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By Randy
Jan 16, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

2.5+ stars. A somewhat obscure, but very worthy climb. A longer and engaging pitch. Should be on all aspiring crack climbers to do list. 5.9 plus.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 18, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Perhaps as good as the nearby Colorado Crack and certainly deserving of more attention.

By Richard Shore
Dec 5, 2012

Nowhere near as good as Colorado Crack. Some fun movement and good length, but the EXTREMELY coarse nature of the rock is a huge detractor. Very painful jamming, even with tape. Maybe worthwhile if you happen to be camped at Jumbo, want to do something other than Conan's Corridor or Zebra Cliffs, are lazy, and don't feel like driving to climb something better. I certainly won't be coming back.