Another stellar climbing area on the Nufenen pass, providing a somewhat more isolated, alpine ambiance than those closer to the Piansecco hut.
The rock is raw granite of generally good quality. On account of its exposure (west/southwest), position and altitude (2560 meters above sea level), Forcella can be rather cool, as the white stuff at its base testifies.
There is a limited itinerary of routes ascending the 300 meter wall.
This is a good place to go to get away from the crowds.
Accommodation can be found at the nearby Piansecco hut, or (sparsely) in the Bedrettotal valley.
More information and topos can be found in the SAC Ticino guidebook or the Keep Wild guidebook.
There are both bolted and trad routes here, although the trad routes cross and / or share anchors with the others.
The approach begins from high up on the Nufenen pass road, a bit higher than the carpark for Piansecco. There is a (rather faint) trail that leads from the road (via a driveway to a small hut) to the north / northeast, towards the mountains. The trail meanders through a beautiful plateau, climbs a bit, then across yet another plateau. There are spectacular conditions for a bivy here. Forcella reveals itself along the way, and the final approach involves scrambling up a west/southwest facing, rocky hill and then traversing a snow field to the base of the wall.
The approach to the area takes around 60 minutes.
Climbing Season For the Switzerland area.
Weather station 8.1 miles from here
1 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Pizzo Forcella
Central pillar 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Europe
: ... : Pizzo Forcella
A very worthwhile, moderate trad climb. Except for the third and fourth pitches, which go at 5b and 5c, respectively, the route is never more difficult than 4b, and in many sections is considerably easier. Despite the lack in homogeneity, it is thoroughly entertaining from start to finish, due to the varied terrain, which includes face climbing, cracks and chimneys, and the alpine protection. ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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