Wow! (I'm surprised this little gem isn't in the database yet) Good climbing. Find this climb on the WNW face of The Finger Flatiron. It is in the sun in the afternoon. It's reminiscent of Thought Control on Stonehenge. The holds are better than you might suspect from a distance. Don't mistake this for Patience, a beautifully striking line on the N face of the Finger Flatiron!
Approach via the Mallory Cave Trail and then continue to the R up past The Box. It is on the L as you make it to the col between the 2nd and 3rd rows of rocks of Dinosaur Mt. Find a short bolted line up a slab with 3 bolts and 2 small overlaps/roofs on this WNW face.
Meander up from the R to the 1st bolt, clip. You can go strong R (longer potential swing) or slightly R (better) and pass this 1st overlap on a good edge. Find yourself at the second clip. Best not to fall on this line. There is a decent sized branch protruding from the tree behind you between the first and second bolts. Moving R at this point makes it 10b (may be soft). Going directly over then 2nd overlap/roof makes it 11a. Small but good edges draw you slightly R and up again. Clip the 3rd bolt. Fire for the top. If you are extra-cautious, there is a crack with finger to hand sized openings just before the anchors. There is a next of bleached slings around a good natural anchor with a single hollow rap ring and a loop of sling. 50 feet.
Why is this Dali-esque?
3 QDs plus slings
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Reasonable climb, but not a destination. Wear your edging shoes for sure. I just 'refreshed' the anchor up top with a new piece of webbing, and the old still remains as well.
Eh- good, but not one I'd bother with again.
One move seemed like 5.11a, just above the second bolt. One guy who followed it (out of 2) went right as prescribed to keep the rating 10b. With no draws clipped he was able to wander a little more and flash-TR'd it- looked like 5.9. (and he was falling on 9s that day)
Top anchor was just re-enforced.