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Scarface
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Unknown 5.9 T 
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 
Unnamed 10- T 
Unnamed 5.9 T 
Wavy Gravy T 
Way Of The Gun T 
Where's Carruthers? T 
Your Mama T 

Nubian Slave 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: UNK
Page Views: 1,580
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Mar 28, 2003

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Description 

'Nubian Slave' is a dark R-facing corner immediately right of the climb Scarface, notable for the Castleton-style calcite decorating the right wall of the dihedral below a roof at the 40' level.

Slightly dicey moves on calcite edges get you up to the roof, after which the corner becomes a smooth, slightly acute slot with big hands/cups. The anchors are not granted until after a creepy OW move around a bulge.

Protection 

Standard assortment of desert gear, plus a couple extra 3.5 friends and perhaps stoppers for the initial corner.


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By Max Schon
Apr 8, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Pretty good. Its a little unusual for the Creek; its kinda like a tower pitch. Good warm-up if Scarface has got hords of gumbies on it.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 23, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Overgraded at 5.11 in the book. Really fun climbing with nice variety and a long handcrack. The second crack in the corner is not apparent at first, but can be seenfrom the base. Teh calcite edges keep teh first big roof from being hard, and the top is awkward wide slot climbing... unless you come out and stem in which cse it is moderate again. Great 35m pitch!