Nubbins to Nowhere 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 165 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Steve Carruthers, Dana Houser: 1983 |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Aug 31, 2007 |
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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Start on Pentapitch or Neuromancer.
| Comments on Nubbins to Nowhere |
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By mikewhite
Oct 11, 2007
| Sweet route.
Everyone should do it.
Bolts replaced years ago by the asca. |
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 6, 2011
| Very cool climb. Finger crack to slab to lieback corner. Also, the easiest 10d I've ever climbed. |
By Spri
Sep 8, 2011
rating: 5.10
| Fun route, suprised that it doesn't see more traffic.
Crack up to 1 bold, step right on a delicate move (crux) to a decent lip, then reach high or make an intermediate move to get some pro in. Easy from there on out.
Easier 10 for sure. |
By johnny utah
From: Salt Lake City
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| Great route on the nose of the lower wall. Stellar climb in a stellar spot! Wandering out to the final bolt of Nubbins Direct after the layback section can set up some better visuals of the follower from a belay up top, will reduce some drag too. |
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