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NRG route suggestions .11-.12
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Oct 18, 2012
Brass monkey
I've climbed sport at the new before but haven't climbed trad there. Im heading down there for a 3 day weekend on veterans day and am hoping to jump on some trad lines.

I was looking for some suggestions on good .11 trad routes to head up, and possibly some soft .12's. Uber trad classics of any grade are welcome as well.

Also, what are the thoughts on offset cams/nuts at the new?

Thanks!
Brassmonkey
Joined Jan 19, 2012
70 points
Oct 18, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!
First, I have never come across and occasion to use offset cams or nuts at the New. The cracks tend to be less pinscar-ish than a lot of granite.

Anyway, my favorite 11s and 12s at the NRG (most of them are the five star lines in the book anyway), in order of awesomeness.

Chasin' the Wind, 11b fingers. This is the must-do. Seriously, do it NOW! Amazing movement, position, and pro.

Leave it to Jesus (11c fingers).

Agent Orange, 11+. More of a thuggy, enduro jam-fest.

Stuck in Another Dimension, 11b (squeeze chimney to techy corner to amazing roof.

Linear Encounters (11a), this climb has everything; ringlocks, hands, fingers, and even a face crux up high.

Marionette (11c), all the business is down low, but turning a roof on a perfect fingerlock is always fun.

Steve Martin's Face (11c) Face-trad. Bolt protects the crux. Easy to set a TR from the classic 5.10 "Rod Serling crack."


Entry-Level 12s:
Big Top, 12a
Replicant, 11+/12a tech-corner
Fingercrack in White Corner, 12a
camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Joined Jun 27, 2006
1,369 points
Oct 18, 2012
Skiing around.
I'll second many of the suggestions by camhead
I'll add:
Welcome to Beauty (11b)

Not as classic but worth doing if you are at Bridge
Handsome and Well Hung is decent (11-)
Englishmans Crack is decent (11-)

Fern Buttress:
Pleasure and Pain (11b) was pretty good, but kind of scary
Sometimes a Great Notion (11a) pretty good (near Orchard Wall with tons of Classic 10s)

Off the Beaten Path at Kaymoor:
The Shining (11a)

BTW - Finger Crack in White Corner was my first 12a gear line, well protected, and more endurancy than bouldery

Edit to add: also near leave it to jesus is:
zygomatic (11c)
diving swan (11a)
raging waters (soft 11a)

near linear encounters:
melifluous (11a)

I never used offset anything at the new...fell hundreds of times on gear there and never had any gear pull out.
Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 13, 2006
2,223 points
Oct 18, 2012
STOP your bitching, NRG
All of Camhead's suggestions are good. A few others that you might want to go check out are:

Bridge Buttress:
Touch of Tango 11c
International Incident 11d/12a PG

Junkyard:
Andropov's Cold 11c

Lower Meadow:
Trojans 11d

Endless:
Melifulous 11a
Remission 11a (I think)
Celibate Mallard 10c
Underserved/Mig Squadron 10c/d

Fern Buttress
Workmans Crack 11a
Toss That Beat in the Garbage Can 10d

Beauty:
Welcome to Beauty 11a

Bubba City:
King Swing 11a
Joseph DeGaetano
From Fayetteville, WV
Joined May 12, 2008
481 points
Oct 18, 2012
Doubleissima free solo
A seemingly overlooked classic (4 out of 4 stars in the current guide) I'd highly recommend is Recondite (11b) at Endless. Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Joined Apr 15, 2009
369 points
Oct 18, 2012
Don't forget Indian Summer (10c) at Summersville...might be a little easier than most of what you're looking for, but it's one of the best cracks at the NRG and is not to be missed BrianKostelnik57
Joined May 30, 2012
1 points
Oct 18, 2012
Skiing around.
BrianKostelnik57 wrote:
Don't forget Indian Summer (10c) at Summersville...might be a little easier than most of what you're looking for, but it's one of the best cracks at the NRG and is not to be missed

That thing kicked my butt more than once.
Would like to try it again now that I have some real crack technique.
Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 13, 2006
2,223 points
Oct 18, 2012
haha mine too. it feels hard for 10c imho BrianKostelnik57
Joined May 30, 2012
1 points
Oct 18, 2012
Venus on the Halfshell, Rumney NH
Leave it to Jesus (11c/d) at Endless may be the best single pitch trad climb I've ever done. Anywhere. If you're climbing the grade, it is a MUST do. A Terray
From San Diego, CA
Joined Sep 21, 2007
205 points
Oct 18, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
Definitely some fantastic pitches mentioned so far. Hell of a list. I really miss climbing out there. Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Joined Mar 6, 2006
2,606 points
Oct 18, 2012
Brass monkey
Thanks for all the great suggestions! I cant wait to get one some of them. Brassmonkey
Joined Jan 19, 2012
70 points
Oct 19, 2012
@ Grayson Highlands somewhere up near Rhody Gap
Check out the Spectre on Idol Point. 11c trad route that has some well spaced bolts added to it (by the FA Doug Reed).

you can lead it with just draws but most people bring a few cams along to place between bolts.

it is a tall pitch and packs a pump.
P. Sully
Joined Aug 30, 2011
413 points
Administrator
Oct 19, 2012
El Chorro
BEAUTY MOUNTAIN my friend. Best climbing you'll ever do. Warm up on the 10's at Burning Buttress and then prepare for ecstasy.

The Will to Power - 11c
Chasin' the Wind - 11b
Welcome to Beauty - 11b
Transcendence - 11d (FA trad but some moron bolted it)
"Sons of Thunder" (both of them) - 11c and 11d(?)


Beauty has got to be one of the best areas on the planet. SO MANY classic gear lines at just about every grade. A lot of excellent hard sport mixed in as well. If I could make a deal with God that I could climb there every weekend with good weather, I'd give up climbing everywhere else. Except for Moore's Wall :)
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Oct 19, 2012
mountainproject.com/scripts/Se... David Barbour
From Denver
Joined Apr 4, 2011
231 points
Oct 20, 2012
Whipping on the redpoint crux of " The Theate...
The beckoning Is a fine line and rocket to my brain is very doable for the grade. Dr. Rocktopolus
From Chattanooga, TN
Joined Mar 29, 2012
39 points


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