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Routes in North Mountain
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Nowhere To Run T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spider, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wish You Were Here T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | E.C. Joe, Barry Fowlie, Bill McConachie May 1986 |
| Page Views: | 3,741 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Limpingcrab DJ on Jan 2, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
The SeKi Rock Climbing website nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/… has current closures as well as other climbing information for visitors.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
Really fun climb up six pitches with all sizes of cracks. Feels sand bagged on the easier pitches because they require many techniques but the grades are fair.
P1: Short, funky but fun corner up to a ledge with a tree.
P2: Wonder up next to or in a chimney until it pinches to fingers and ends at a white triangle with webbing on it.
P3: Splitter crack ranging from squeeze to fingers up to a tree.
P4: Kind of confusing. Trend up and right to a crack, then back left, then up and right again to a right facing corner, then up to a pretty big tree.
P5: Right curving open book/corner into arching finger crack. Ends at two OLD bolts. Crux
P6: Up and left a bit to meet with and finish on the awesome splitter you can see from the road. End at the two OLD rap bolts.
Descend with one 70m or two 60m ropes. Two old bolted anchors and trees/blocks for the rest. Bring webbing.
P1: Short, funky but fun corner up to a ledge with a tree.
P2: Wonder up next to or in a chimney until it pinches to fingers and ends at a white triangle with webbing on it.
P3: Splitter crack ranging from squeeze to fingers up to a tree.
P4: Kind of confusing. Trend up and right to a crack, then back left, then up and right again to a right facing corner, then up to a pretty big tree.
P5: Right curving open book/corner into arching finger crack. Ends at two OLD bolts. Crux
P6: Up and left a bit to meet with and finish on the awesome splitter you can see from the road. End at the two OLD rap bolts.
Descend with one 70m or two 60m ropes. Two old bolted anchors and trees/blocks for the rest. Bring webbing.
Location
After crossing the river before Zumwalt Meadow take the dirt road west along the north side of the river to the NPS stables and park on the side of the road (you can see the splitter cracks of the upper pitches from here). The cliff is divided by a large gully, scramble up talus and large blocks to the buttress on the right side of the gully. Begin in a corner with a wide crack and tree at the top (see pictures)
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