Nowhere Man 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Joanne Urioste and Karl Wilcox |
| Season: | Fall, Winter, Spring |
| Submitted By: | Tim Wolfe on Jan 29, 2012 |
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BETA PHOTO: Distant photo of the route with a red line drawn i...
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Description This route climbs an obvious deep cleft on the far left side of the Brass wall - starting in a cave, exiting the cave by climbing left to right and squeezing out to the outer corner and ascending clean solid rock to a 2 bolt belay 100 feet up. It goes at about 5.8 and is a worthy single pitch route for the grade.
The pitch beyond the belay going up and right across the featured rock is loose, dangerous and not worth doing ever again. We abandoned it after about 50 or 60 feet. Other options for a complete direct start look to be possible a bit further to the right.
Location This route sits on the left side of the Brass wall, to the left of Birdland and Hidden Persuaders. It sits immediately below and slightly left of the second pitch of Hidden Persuaders in a deep cleft - starting in a cave / tunnel and exiting out into the corner about 30 feet up.
Protection Standard selection of cams from a size 4 Camelot at the bottom to small cams and wires in the crack above.
BETA PHOTO: Nowhere Man
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The tunnel start
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Smile
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The clean upper section of the corner
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 30, 2012
| Larry DeAngelo and I did this pitch years ago- an...interesting pitch. I was quite glad to discover that bolted anchor in the back, as continuing upward seemed improbable... |
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Jan 31, 2012
| After John and I (and Matt) did the route several years ago, I ran down the history. The first ascent had been a few years before that by Joanne Urioste and Karl Wilcox. The name "Nowhere Man" refers to the fact that, as Tim observed, it does not provide a good connection to any of the routes on the upper wall. |
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