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Long Wall
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Gift, The 
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Long Wall Chimney 
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Now I'm Nothing 
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Rock Wars 
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Unsorted Routes:

Now I'm Nothing 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a Hueco: V3 Font: 6A X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Uncertain. (FDA: T. Bubb)
Season: Any
Page Views: 797
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 3, 2006
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Photo by L. DeFilippo (my mother-in-law to be at t...

Description 

NIN. A good boulder problem if you are a boulderer, and 3* for that, but not much of a route. Climb up the center of the steep rock, facing the climbs Autumn and Rock Wars. The moves are thin and balancey and the crux high enough for a fall to screw up your day. There were a lot of jagged rocks below it in 1994. More recent reports suggest that this may have been cleared/flattened.


Location 

Walk right from the approach trail along the wall until you stand below a massive light-colored roof, a few hundred feet up. There is a large boulder under this, perhaps 15 feet back from the wall. A left-facing obtuse corner in orange/brown rock on the left has a hand-crack (Autumn) and a right-facing obtuse corner is on the right with a thinner crack and lighter rock (Rock Wars). If you turn around and face the boulder behind you, you will see a steep, flat face with thin holds going up it. This is Now I'm Nothing.


Protection 

Protection? This is a high-ball boulder problem, a TR or a solo. I don't know for sure the FA info, but I soloed it after a TR in 1993 or 1994. If the bottom were to be terraced (perhaps it has been since 94?) it wouldn't be much of a high-ball anymore and a few pads and a spotter would do.



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By Chris Chaney
From: Arvada, Colorado
Oct 5, 2006

The base is much more comfortable now. You still need a pad or two.

Also check out the blunt arete to the left and the slab left of that. This can easily be top roped as well.

By Tim Powers
From: Indiana
Nov 16, 2013

FA, Tim Powers 1990, no pad 2 spotters.Informed John B, but he did not add to guidebook at the time.