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Scout Lake
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A-Climb-A-Tize 
Blues Streak 
Ed's Route 
Gone With the Wind 
Green Eggs and Ham 
Guillotine 
Hero Maker 
Lustography 
Novacaine 
Shinangwav 

Novacaine 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: James Taylor, Carl Begal, 1993
Season: Summer
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 1, 2008
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  • Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts; please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous.
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Near the center of Book Cliffs is a large open book, with two bolted lines on the left wall (Guillotine and Blues Streak), a broken pillar in the corner, and an attractive green face on the right wall (Green Eggs and Ham). To the right of the buttress/arete formed by the right-side of the green face (A-climb-a-tize) is a slightly right-leaning crack leading to an obvious roof. Climb this (some possible loose rock, but inconsequential), judiciously turn the roof, and continue up face to the top.


    Protection 

    Nuts and cams to 3 inches. Belay from gear, using the Green Eggs and Ham anchors for back-up as needed. Descend by rapping off the Green Eggs anchors.


    Location 

    In the middle of Book Cliffs, approximately 20 feet right of Green Eggs and Ham.



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    By Fett
    Sep 8, 2009
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    I think the book said there were anchors at the top of the route but all I found was a shit load of duct tape on the lip and some chopped bolts. I climbed this with my girl friend that really doesn't climb so I had to build a anchor next to the chopped bolts, lower to the ground and TR to get my gear back. I saw the anchors for green egg but just saw bolts that really were not set for rapping, I chose the walk off. Not as solid of rock as I thought it would be and the roof (the best part) seems harder than 5.8, I will give it a 5.9

    By Boissal
    From: Small Lake, UT
    Aug 27, 2011
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    Novocain.
    Bit loose at the bottom, the moves straight out of the roof are burly and a bit painful (sharp edges in the crack) and the upper face is great. There's a few good cracks (around loose blocks) to build an anchor. Bring your second up and walk to the bolted anchors of Green Egg. Rap from your stuff and retrieve it later.