Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Mike Brooks, Chip Ruckgaber, 1980 |
Page Views: | 897 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jun 30, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route, whatever it is called, is another tick on Obscure Eldo route tour on Lower Peanuts. This is a neighbor of Home Free and Double Cracks.
Find the ledge to the base of Star Wars. This terrain is easy to the base here. This line starts right of Star Wars by perhaps 40 feet.
Find a double crack system. Start just right, stem, and yard on top of a ledge. Here you face the crux. There is not much pro here though. Step up and reach to a big flake. Find a series of improbable holds all just enough to keep it 5.7. The pro is certainly spartan at best. Lichen here tells a tale of less traffic than other sort-of-classic routes nearby like Star Wars and Home Free.
Perhaps a better option for those climbing in this range: TR this line with directional pro from the top of the first pitch of Double Cracks There is a spot for a #1 Camalot and this can be equalized with #0.75 Camalot under the flake about 4 feet above.
Find the ledge to the base of Star Wars. This terrain is easy to the base here. This line starts right of Star Wars by perhaps 40 feet.
Find a double crack system. Start just right, stem, and yard on top of a ledge. Here you face the crux. There is not much pro here though. Step up and reach to a big flake. Find a series of improbable holds all just enough to keep it 5.7. The pro is certainly spartan at best. Lichen here tells a tale of less traffic than other sort-of-classic routes nearby like Star Wars and Home Free.
Perhaps a better option for those climbing in this range: TR this line with directional pro from the top of the first pitch of Double Cracks There is a spot for a #1 Camalot and this can be equalized with #0.75 Camalot under the flake about 4 feet above.
Photos
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