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Snowshed Wall
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Nova Express 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,269
Submitted By: Blitzo on Nov 11, 2006
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Trying to pro up the last steep and wide crux of N...

Description 

This is the beautiful jamcrack in the center of the East Face.


Protection 

Pro to 2.5".



Photos of Nova Express Slideshow Add Photo
The beautiful east face of Snowshed.
The beautiful east face of Snowshed.
Meg starting up Nova Express
Meg starting up Nova Express
Laine nearing the top of N.E.
Laine nearing the top of N.E.
Bravo entering the large hands section
Bravo entering the large hands section
Comments on Nova Express Add Comment
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By 426
Mar 6, 2007

Be careful protecting the bottom. The flakes are loose. This pitch has cratered several people with broken legs and maybe even a fatality.

5.9+ for sure. Not for the fledgling 9 leader...at all.

I'd take a few larger pieces as well.

By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 24, 2008

I agree that this is a stout 5.9! While it does protect very well, care must be taken to place gear so that it doesn't get in your way. There is a distinct crux about halfway up, although the whole climb is fairly strenuous.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 15, 2008

Great climb, some grainy rock. The cupped hand jams through the crux will chew you up if you're not careful.

By Joe Dawson
May 12, 2009

Don't let the previous comments scare you off from doing this route. The bottom part of the climb before you get in the crack is perfectly protectable. I think I put a #4 Camalot in as my first or second piece pretty close to the bottom. After that, the largest piece you will need is a #3 Camalot.

The crack is splitter and takes good pro. This is a must do for all crack lovers.

By LifeIsGood
May 15, 2010

I followed this one - great climb to practice crack moves. There's nothing like a solid hand jam!

By Nut Stac
From: Reno, NV
Jul 5, 2010

New to crack climbing. Tried to put this up yesterday, very very stout. Awesome climb though, tons of fun. But like was said before me, not for the fledgling crack leader (such as I).

By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Great climb, nothing harder than 5.9, but a bit tricky through the crux. I was able to use hand jams through the upper wide section. Wide gear can be placed at the bottom and at the top, but isn't necessary.

By coreylee
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 12, 2011

Really fun climb! Did farewell to arms just before and found this climb to be a bit harder.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 13, 2011

You see, Corey, the Nova/Farewell gauge of difficulty is order dependent. If you do Nova first, Farewell will feel harder...and vice versa. ;)

By Tyson W.
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Classic. I think this is a more challenging lead than Black September. (I used to think the reverse, incorrectly.) The whole east face area of Snowshed is superb, and this climb dominates the center of the main face there. It Begs to be climbed.

I highly recommend a variation (I only tr'd this way) that starts farther right (I guess this would be the the start to Welcome to my Nightmare?) and traverses a left slanting crack system which almost meets nova about 25-30 feet up. Super excellent movement, and not too hard up to that point.