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Notorious 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Lloyd
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 818
Submitted By: mlloyd on Apr 3, 2013
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Matt Lloyd on the FA of "Notorious".

Description 

This route is just right of Idiot Savant, start with a right hand sidepull and a small left hand crimp and climb up the several overhangs to the anchors at the base of the large roof.

I have no idea how to grade this route, it has some powerful moves and some weird, tweaky pulls. It could be 12c or 13b depending on your style. Don't worry about that... enjoy the climb, it's a nice addition.

A small disclaimer: this route was bolted with the intention of linking it into the route to the right the "Life After Death" project but climbs wonderfully as a route of its own. It is a bit of a squeeze job but is an enjoyable endeavor. For full points, stay on route and don't bust out left into Idiot Savant.

This finishes on the same anchors as Idiot Savant.


Location 

It is the 2nd route from the right of the wall.


Protection 

5 QDs plus 2 for the anchor.



Photos of Notorious Slideshow Add Photo
Jamie Gatch busting out the weird mantel.
Jamie Gatch busting out the weird mantel.
The routes... now link them.
BETA PHOTO: The routes... now link them.
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