This fine route climbs great moderate terrain through several right leaning diagonal seams, progressively getting more difficult. One of those jacked up 'stand up' moves that give me trouble is just the start of the business. From this point the route is in your face until nearly the end, with tricky, technical, thin climbing that requires the climber to look around and think ahead. A brilliant route that seemed significantly harder for the grade than many of the routes in the area.
This route is immediately left of 'Coven'. Looking at the central plate of the Mustache Wall, this route is 2 bolted routes to the left of the big gnarly chimney.
6 bolts and mussy hooks.
|By Randy in Ridgecrest|
From: Inyokern, CA
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Good footwork a must at the crux or it will seem harder than 11c. Very hard undercling variation to the right at the top. Kind of an exercise climb, if it were longer it would be classic.