The crux? IMHO I thought that there were three of them; one minor one at the second bolt and two leaving the horizontals. Fun route, but harder than a 10c (I think). This is a fun route, but a bit crimpy and a bit of a head trip near the top.
This route starts on an overhanging bulge that leads to a ledge, just right of "In Seam" (look for an obvious vertical shallow crack) on the face just left of the main (tallest) wall.
Nine bolts with shuts.
|By Justin York|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 8, 2010
This route is more like 100 ft, and one of the longest routes at the uppper pond.
Dec 21, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Not to correct anyone just to be a know it all, but route length is probably the most important figure listed here (when it is near or greater than the length of a typical rope). I assure you, this route is not 100 ft. It probably isn't even 80 ft but that seems like a good safe estimate.
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 8, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
There are two bolted lines to the right of In Seam and both follow the description in the older fold out guide. This one's got the way cooler start and is just to the right (In Seam's the easy one to find). Both have delicate and fun face moves up top -- thoughtful, like In Seam.
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
Climbed this route for the first time over the Thanksgiving weekend. Just a couple of updates on conditions: no shuts at the anchor and no chains, 2 bolts instead. Suggested extended draws or equalized anchors. Also there were quite a bit of loose rocks right by the anchors, so be careful.
This route is long. We had a 60m rope and I hit the middle marker when I clipped the anchor on lead. With the slack out and rope stretch, it is fine on a 60m. The first bolt is pretty high on thin feet, but good hands. Stick clipping would be the safe choice.
As for difficulty, IMHO it's harder than 10c. What makes it a bit easier than say Soft Parade, is that NLF alternates easy and hard sections. The thin sections are very delicate with few holds, so you have to plan your sequence well and the route is so tall the easier sections might not feel so easy anymore near the top.
Fun route. Will make you work for it.