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Is This How You Clip? AKA: Douglas's Excellent Adventure 
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Unsorted Routes:

Not Too Keen 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 795
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Jan 28, 2008
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Description 

Great thin face route. Either bring a stick clip or, for full value, place a bomber nut or two below the crux face. 5.10 crack-ish climbing will bring you to the first bolt and the beginning of a very tenuous, powerful sequence. Crimp your way past two more bolts to the anchor.


Location 

Between Suck My Dope and Morphine Endorphin.


Protection 

3 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. Either place good gear below the first bolt or figure out some way to stick clip that first bolt, because it's up there.



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By Heath Bailey
Mar 10, 2010

"Not Too Keen" is generally considered 5.12+.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Mar 11, 2010

Wow, what a great route. I hadn't thought of it in years and then I saw this comment. I had a great time working this thing out.