Not My Tick To Bear
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 0.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Deb Thompson, LP? |
Page Views: | 1,250 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Dec 10, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.?
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This line seems so obvious, but given the flakes cleaned, it appears it has not received any attention. It is most definitely adventure climbing with some grittiness, a few wobbly chockstones, and a fragile flake or two to spice it up. The crack affords fingers, hands, fists, and even a bit of offwidth. So, come prepared for a sport climber's bad dream.
We'd recommend keeping the belayer well down and right of the climb protected by a big flake. Start up an interesting crack on the left that opens up beyond its edges. Make a slightly balancy move right into the obvious, main crack using a big chockstone that didn't seem to move. Head up the crack that offers big edges to the side of the crack almost whenever you need them. Find a near vertical section at mid-height. Check out the wild, thin flakes out right. Near the top, there is a mobile chockstone that was stable enough for a judicious foot placement. You can finish in the obvious split or continue up easy jugs to the top of the pinnacle (and downclimb 20' back to the split).
Walk off slippery slopes down the backside. If you drag up a timid soul, you may consider lowering 'em off the front first.
We'd recommend keeping the belayer well down and right of the climb protected by a big flake. Start up an interesting crack on the left that opens up beyond its edges. Make a slightly balancy move right into the obvious, main crack using a big chockstone that didn't seem to move. Head up the crack that offers big edges to the side of the crack almost whenever you need them. Find a near vertical section at mid-height. Check out the wild, thin flakes out right. Near the top, there is a mobile chockstone that was stable enough for a judicious foot placement. You can finish in the obvious split or continue up easy jugs to the top of the pinnacle (and downclimb 20' back to the split).
Walk off slippery slopes down the backside. If you drag up a timid soul, you may consider lowering 'em off the front first.
1 Comment