Type: | Mixed, Ice, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | FRA T. Phillips, L. Douglas 01/08 |
Page Views: | 1,489 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Luke Douglas on Feb 6, 2008 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1. Climb low angle thin ice over a couple bulges, aim for the chimney with the dagger growing out of it and belay at the base. W2/3-150+
P2. Climb up the back of the chimney using what works for progress. Clip a fixed KB at the "apex" of the chimney. Keep groping for the best pick placement over the lip (mine happened to be a clump of moss). Swing out to the right and bash in a killer L.A. from a good stance. A few more drytooling moves bring you to a low angle snow ramp, climb this for about 10 ft. Keep an eye out for the bolted rap station on the right under a mini roof of sorts. M3 60 ft.
P2. Climb up the back of the chimney using what works for progress. Clip a fixed KB at the "apex" of the chimney. Keep groping for the best pick placement over the lip (mine happened to be a clump of moss). Swing out to the right and bash in a killer L.A. from a good stance. A few more drytooling moves bring you to a low angle snow ramp, climb this for about 10 ft. Keep an eye out for the bolted rap station on the right under a mini roof of sorts. M3 60 ft.
Location
This route lies on the quartzite/granite fault to the west of Scruffy proper. Your right tool will be on quartzite and your left will be on granite at times, pretty cool. Find a steep snow gulley leading to the base and posthole up this. At the top of the gulley go to the west about 100 ft.
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