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Not Long For This World 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Drysdale & Elliott Crooks, '86 or '87
Page Views: 637
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

This route is pretty cool--a tricky start gains a large pocket just below the small, right-facing dihedral. There is a very thin crack here, but you can't really jam it. Instead, stem up this steep face using holds on all three faces. It would be a dicey lead but not unprotectable.


Protection 

RPs, TCUs, and some mid-size Aliens for some pockets down low (or tricams). 2 bolts on top of wall for a toprope.



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By Dan Mottinger
Nov 17, 2003

Gear Alert

A few things, reading the book this route starts off "Begin at the right side of the flake..." after trying to figure out the route at the base, I realized that we were ON the flake, which has fallen off. The flake must have been off since 99 b/c I can't remember it being there when I first tried the route.There is an obvious outline of the 10' by 10' flake on the wall. I don't know if the flake was good flack laybacking or not so don't know about the rating of that part. One can go up a crack/ flake remnants where the left side of the flake was with several tricky moves but the crux still being on the upper part. One can also start the route direct on the face directly below the dihedral as indicated by chalk ticks (this looks hard 10 to 11). The climbing Colorado book rates this 10c, and I'll split the difference calling it at least 10b. Lastly, the two bolts on top are not great, one being one of those old rusted "star" (quarter inch?) bolts. There are several blocks one can sling to back the bolts up though. Good route...

By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Feb 23, 2004

I'd say that the left hand crack/flake variation goes at mid 10. The direct start is VERY crimp with bad feet. I wouldn't rate it any easier than mid 11, maybe harder as it is a long reach from the chalked holds to anything decent up higher. Wasn't able to complete the start, but its definately do-able. I'll give it more time next time around.

By Elliott Crooks
Nov 8, 2006

FA '86 or '87, Chris Drysdale & Elliott Crooks. The flake fell off late '90s-laybacking the flake was definitely easier than it is now, but nervous to lead, as the flake's lack of attachment led to the route name.

By pinchepaco
From: castle rock, co
Aug 16, 2009

I did that climb today, and it was awesome. I had tried it several months ago and did not finish it. The old school, paper book guide for the canyon says it's a 10a and I would agree. This is a really great climb.