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 ADVANCED
Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Block, The T 
Castrum, The T 
Chessboard, The T 
Coco-Loco T 
Court Jester T 
Coyote In the Bushes T 
Crown Jewels T 
Drawbridge, The TR 
Duchess T 
Duchess Left T 
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 
Duchess Right T 
La Reina T 
Marchesa T 
Monaco S 
Not Just another Pretty Face T 
Paper or Plastic? T 
Pocket Pool S 
Route 1326 T 
Scaramouch T 
Swishbah T 

Not Just another Pretty Face 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Todd, Todd Trautner and Robert Alexander, 11/86
Page Views: 374
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: "Not Just Another Pretty Face". Photo by...

Description 

Located roughly in the center of the Feudal Wall, this is the route just left of Crown Jewels (5.9), and could potentially be done as a harder, but more solid alternative to the first pitch to that route.

Scramble up easy ledges to reach a bolt above a narrow ledge about 20' up, then make some reachy moves utilizing a black knob and some edges to reach easy terrain (sparse pro here) above the bolt. Higher, pass some horizontals and enter the crux - a steep seam/crack which offers good protection, although hanging out to place it may be problematic. The climbing is characterized by finger locks in a flared crack as you pull a bulge which gives way to easy but very grainy finishing moves. Large cams are useful in a grainy, flared crack 10' above the flat ledge atop the route.

While not a classic by any means, this route offers some decent climbing with protection that is better than apperances might suggest. One star out of five.

Protection 

bolt (3/8"), pro to 3.5"


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By Tan Slacks
From: Joshua tree
Mar 26, 2005

I have to agree with Chris. Although not a classic, there are some classic moves. The bulge is downright fun and the finger crack (IMHO) fell a bit easier than 10c. I can't usually do 10c fingers!
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 27, 2005

I do remember doing/trying and getting my butt kicked on what I thought was an 5.11a..b..or maybe c? That top section was.........well...........blank...
By keli
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 26, 2006

Fun route if you take it to the top. Warning for short folks, the first bolt is very hard to clip and the bulge move is very reachy.