This is on the black face between Slippery Nipple and Undertow (right-leaning dihedral). Climb up fun plates to a stopper crux climbing through a blank section. Reach the crux plate, then continue on jugs to the anchors at 70 feet.
Left of the cable marking the start of Slippery Nipple is a blank face above a perfect belay rock.
5 bolts to two bolt anchor.
On the FA.
|By Kevin Stricker|
From: Evergreen, CO
Mar 23, 2009
This route would be a classic if not for the hard to clip crux bolt and almost impossible crux slab moves.
|By Garrett Bales|
From: Lake City, CO
Nov 18, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Agreed, the bolt in the middle of the plate sucks/impossible to clip till you've gained the top of the plate. It would be better placed lower so you could clip then attempt the low percentage, no foot move through the big plate. Hard climb, we guessed grade, couldn't stick the crux sequence.
|By Glenn Schuler|
From: Monument, Co.
Nov 19, 2012
I most certainly botched that bolt placement! Planning on relocating it when I get the time.