|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||FFA- Ian Lingley, Tom Anderson|
|Submitted By:||Ian Lingley on Jun 21, 2011|
|Comments on Not Contrived Fejaitah||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: New Brunswick Canada
Dec 6, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
|It's now recommended to stick-clip the 2nd bolt on this route as the 1st bolt has been moved left to accomodate the original line|
By Ian Lingley
Feb 22, 2012
I think it’s crazy that the first bolt on this climb was chopped and moved left for a contrived 5.12 variation that could have been climbed by stick clipping the second bolt, or by climbing a little left of the original bolt placement.
Sport climbing is not about putting the bolts were you want people to climb. Sport climbing is about finding a NATURAL line that does not provide natural protection, and then you add the bolts accordingly.
If you don’t want to bolt another 5.10 and want to put up something hard, then find something hard. Please don’t try to make a hard climb.