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Not Contrived Fejaitah  

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FFA- Ian Lingley, Tom Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 194
Submitted By: Ian Lingley on Jun 21, 2011

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Description 

Stick clip the first bolt, one move will get you to a nice jug. Climb the weirdly featured face past the second bolt. Clip the third bolt from the right side, and then pull over the top. Shares an anchor with Tor-Til-Ah.


Location 

This a 3 bolt sport climb located on a ledge in the very back of the quarry.


Protection 

3 bolts 2 raprings
stick clip first bolt



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By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Dec 6, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

It's now recommended to stick-clip the 2nd bolt on this route as the 1st bolt has been moved left to accomodate the original line

By Ian Lingley
Administrator
Feb 22, 2012

I think it’s crazy that the first bolt on this climb was chopped and moved left for a contrived 5.12 variation that could have been climbed by stick clipping the second bolt, or by climbing a little left of the original bolt placement.
Sport climbing is not about putting the bolts were you want people to climb. Sport climbing is about finding a NATURAL line that does not provide natural protection, and then you add the bolts accordingly.
If you don’t want to bolt another 5.10 and want to put up something hard, then find something hard. Please don’t try to make a hard climb.