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 ADVANCED
Salt Lake Slips
Routes Sorted
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Abracadabra T 
Chalking Dead T,TR 
Double Tap S 
Entre Nous S 
Forgotten Ambition T 
Goth Girls S 
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 
Italian Arete S 
Maudlin S 
Nosferatu S 
Roll the Bones S 
Salem's Lot S,TR 
Senseless Banter T 
Thieving Magpie S 
Witchhunt S 
Wop Dego T 
Zombieland T 

Nosferatu 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kris Pietryga and James Garrett, 23 November 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: When conditions permit
Page Views: 2,286
Submitted By: James Garrett on Nov 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Description 

A short, pumpy warm up climb for the longer routes to the right. The well-protected crux is surmounting the first of two roofs in the middle of the crag.

Location 

On the south facing side of the Salt Lake Slips, Nosferatu starts up just to the left of the pine tree 20 feet to the left (west) of Salem's Lot. Given its location, its length, and its pump factor, this fun climb should prove to be popular.

Protection 

4 bolts protect this short pitch to a two bolt belay anchor on top.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 30, 2013
By Mark D Evans
From: Sandy, UT
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Short, pumpy, and fun is a great description. There are a few loose holds as you head up the roofs, so pull carefully. But with some traffic, this should clean up a bit. Good addition to the area for sure.
By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
Aug 29, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Still cleaning up, but not too bad. I pulled several loose rocks out at the first crux. There are good stances for all the clips.
By Stymingersfink
Sep 8, 2008

the second bolt is located too close to the edge of the roof, resulting in potentially levering the biner's spine to the breaking point if one were to fall there.

The anchors need the chain extended a bit as well, as the current setup is less than desirable.
By ldsclimber
From: Queen Creek AZ
Oct 16, 2008

Just saw it and climbed it today. Fun and great little addition to the Puritan Area:) I agree on the chains.We'll see if it gets fixed ;)
By James Garrett
Nov 13, 2008

I will be happy to adjust the chains at the next opportunity, but I should hope anyone feels more than welcome to lug the chain up themselves and make the desired adjustments...especially if you enjoy TRing and lowering off the chain. "Correcting" or "bettering" belays and top anchors are always fine with me!
thanks
By James Garrett
May 27, 2009

I went back, enjoyed the climb alot more than before, but despite being armed to the teeth with chain, links, extensions, etc. I just couldn't figure out what the problem (as described above) with the anchor was?? The only conceivable way that the lower bolt could possibly be leveraged would be if it was the only bolt clipped...and who does that at the top anchor of a two bolt belay??

I left it as it was....seemed righteous enough to both me and my partner??
By Tryhard
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 9, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I didn't think this was any harder than Witchhunt. Didn't really have an issue with the chains either. There is a fun mantel move at the top if you are in the mood.
By chris21
Sep 3, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

fun route, it had some loose rock, the second and third bolts were very close together, it felt pretty easy for 10b
By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Sep 18, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This climb was pretty cool. 5.10b is probably too high, when you compare it to witch hunt, dog pile, or chambered nautilus. Thanks James for putting these wonderful climbs up! It sure makes for an enjoyable time. One day you'll have to show me how to bolt routes. ;)
By Josh Triplett
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 12, 2012

Fun little warm up climb. Holds in all the right places for the two little roof problems. Watch the z-clip between bolts 2&3. I felt they would have been better maybe a little further apart, but great holds to clip. I would say 10a as well.
By James Logan
Aug 3, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I honestly felt it was in the 5.9 range. Fun, pumpy but pretty easy. Pretty juggy holds all the way up.
5.9
24 hours later- I went back and climbed it again today. It is definately 5.10, 5.10b is probably pretty good. You have to climb on the right. Based on all the chalk, most are cheating off to the left which would be 5.8/5.9 (super juggy).
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed this several times trying to figure out the route. Agree with James - ton of chalk to the left but if you climb out left (where the chalk is) feels more like 5.9. Climb the face where the bolts are and its definitely more fun! Big juggs and a tiny face smear at the end on a small piece of polished rock. No loose holds as of today. Definitely a fun addition! 10a because route is so short and several resting places.