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 ADVANCED
4. Many Cracks Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abby's Bulge TR 
Cussin' Crack T,TR 
Dirty, Hard, and Worth Doing TR 
Incapacitation T,TR 
Klinger, The TR 
Noseprick T,TR 
Stairway to Pizza Ranch TR 
Third Time's a Charm T,TR 

Noseprick 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 263
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on Sep 28, 2008

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Description 

Noseprick is the second main crack system counting from the climber's right on Many Cracks Buttress (this assumes that you don't count The Klinger as one of the main cracks since there's only a crack on the top portion of that climb. If you count The Klinger, then this is the third crack from the climber's right.) Layback, jam, and use holds on the face top this one out. Polished footholds constitute the crux a little over half way up the crack.


Location 

Noseprick is the second crack counting from the climber's right on Many Cracks Buttress (not counting The Klinger.)


Protection 

Standard TR set up. There are lots of options for pro at the top, but long slings may be helpful.

This route could probably be protected on lead but I TR'd it. You can see the whole crack from the ground.



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By Jeff J.
From: Sioux Falls, SD
May 1, 2011

Pro is fine for leading. I used mostly stoppers. top rope it first if you are not confident.