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This classic route is a left-facing, then a right-facing corner system capped by a crack, immediately right of Retribution.
P1: The climb starts in a left-facing dihedral and works up to a small roof on the left. Clip a fixed pin and work up the short hand crack. The crux is the bulging finger crack above. The finger locks are bomber, so don't forget to enjoy the exposure. Traverse left to a bolt anchor.
Rap with a single rope.
Gear to 2" with extra finger-size cams.
Entering the upper corner. It's about 5.8 or 9 her...
Starting the crux.
Beginning the barn door layack. This is a decent r...
In the middle of the layback. BTW, these photos ar...
Finishing off. This used to be the crux for me, bu...
The early stages of Nosedive. There's pretty much...
Retribution and Nosedive in the winter
|By Paul Crowder|
Mar 9, 2006
Super, super classic. My memory is, per Ivan's comments on his photos, that the face holds on the right, at the start of the crux, are the way to go, followed by a blind move left into the crack. I'm kinda tall, so that may not work for everyone. Super exciting.
|By Mike fenice|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2006
This is a great route that should be on everyone's tick list. Ivan's pictures and route description are spot on. The gear is a bit funky in places but nothing out of the ordinary. The uper crux moves remind me of "Space Invaders".
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 16, 2007
I enjoyed this route much more than Retirbution. I also found it to be substantially harder. I'm 5'7", and I found my reach was about 3" too short to use the face holds out right below the bulge. Climbing the corner directly was by far the hardest section of the route, and harder than the crux of Rertribution.
I was a bit unnerved by the lack of gear below the first roof, but the rest protects well. The moves going over the first roof are great. The splitter-crack-bulge at the top was really fun too. For me this was 'rattly fingers' size, so I wasn't yarding on bomber locks, but I was easily able to lieback. The new foothold created by the broken hold was key (great heel-holk-rockover). .5 Camalots were perfect for this crack.
|By J. Albers|
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I probably have no business commenting on the grade of a classic Gunks route, but just don't expect this to be a gimme 10b. Anywhere else and this route gets some brand of 10+. Nonetheless, this is a stellar route; sustained, technical, powerful, and amazing. As Mono says, the gear before the first roof is a little tricky, though you can get a good sized RP to help your head out (its a good piece). Also, my brother has some pretty big hands (we call him Meat Paw) and he couldn't get any locker finger jams in the crack over the last roof...seemed like a lieback situation until you are established over the roof and you can sink a good hand jam. IMHO, much better than 'Retribution' to the left.
Aug 13, 2010
That's too bad about Meat Paws there - I get such sinker fingers in there that I worry about falling on them!
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Essex, NY
Apr 9, 2012
Great gear the whole way. You can sew up the crux. I never felt unsafe and I don't like runouts on sketchy gear. Sustained but always a rest in-between moves. Only issue is the zoo that is the uberfall staring up at you while you're climbing......once you isolate your mind from that, it is a pleasure to climb!!