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 ADVANCED
Poison Ivy Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"49" S 
Cadet Buster S,TR 
Done Broke the Code S,TR 
Dr Death S,TR 
Gunkish S,TR 
Happy Falling to You S,TR 
Hot Wire S,TR 
Im Going ... Oh Im Going Nowhere! S,TR 
Knob and Chain S 
Know The Code S 
Laws of Physics are strictly enforced, The S 
May the net Forces be with You S 
Message to Garcia S,TR 
Nose S,TR 
Not So Fast S 
Opposition AKA Here it comes S,TR 
Perfect Face S 
Pink Butt Tights S 
Razzle Dazzle S 
Reach of Faith  S,TR 
Rock Hard S 
S&S Left S,TR 
S&S Right S,TR 
Sally S 
Savage Within aka Bloody Sister 1, The S,TR 
Side Pull Plus S 
Spank-A-Saurus S,TR 
Triple Banger Overhanger S,TR 
Window on the Hudson S,TR 
Ziggy's Overhang S,TR 

Nose 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ned Crossley, Gene Smith
Page Views: 234
Submitted By: kenr on Nov 7, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

The historic "original" difficulty grade in the old West Point guide was 5.7+
The historic route description was:
"Straight up nose stepping left. Up face to ledge system stepping up left. Up left facing corners mid-face with bolts on outside. Step around right and up to another ledge. Over last section with right facing corner up to rap/belay station. Very popular cadet route. From here the cliff gets 95 so make sure your rap/belay ropes both reach bottom from your setup or intended task.
V1: Climb outside corner on face in mid-route section.
V2: Climb inside corner mid-route and go right up through overhang at top by stemming out left (5.9-)."

Could set up Top-Rope by making a short rappel from above the top of the cliff down to the anchor bolts.

Location 

route name at bottom painted in white as of 2014
RRT# 119
. (between Side Pulls Plus and Ziggy's Overhang)

The historic Start description was:
"Below overhangs up 16 at prominent nose in overhang."

Protection 

Bolts -- Years ago there were 11 bolts, but I have not checked to see of that count is still accurate.


Comments on Nose Add Comment
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By kenr
Nov 11, 2014

Steel carabiners on the anchor bolts now, for convenient top-roping.

Sustained interesting climbing.