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The historic "original" difficulty grade in the old West Point guide was 5.7+
The historic route description was:
"Straight up nose stepping left. Up face to ledge system stepping up left. Up left facing corners mid-face with bolts on outside. Step around right and up to another ledge. Over last section with right facing corner up to rap/belay station. Very popular cadet route. From here the cliff gets 95’ so make sure your rap/belay ropes both reach bottom from your setup or intended task.
V1: Climb outside corner on face in mid-route section.
V2: Climb inside corner mid-route and go right up through overhang at top by stemming out left (5.9-)."
Could set up Top-Rope by making a short rappel from above the top of the cliff down to the anchor bolts.
route name at bottom painted in white as of 2014
. (between Side Pulls Plus and Ziggy's Overhang)
The historic Start description was:
"Below overhangs up 16’ at prominent “nose” in overhang."
Bolts -- Years ago there were 11 bolts, but I have not checked to see of that count is still accurate.
Nov 11, 2014
Steel carabiners on the anchor bolts now, for convenient top-roping.
Sustained interesting climbing.