A rad outing, up a proud feature. Be prepared for a plethora of climbing terrain and some memorable pitches on quality stone.
P1- Start up the right side of the middle of the Shadow Buttress. You will see bolts beginning about 15 off the deck, leading up a nice slab towards the huge grey roof above. 13 bolts to a nice anchor, 5.11 - techy, thin. ~100 feet
P2- A wild, exposed and pumpy pitch out the grey overhang. You will want either long slings or to skip some of the 19 bolts to avoid crippling rope drag. Super steep, super juggy for the most part. Book claims .12c, could be as easy as .12a (?) depending on your height and climbing preference. Airy!
P3- A hard boulder problem through a bulging crack system begins shortly after leaving the belay. Punchy crux to a wandering slab and finish with an easy wide crack to a mellow belay stance and a 3 bolt anchor. ~80 feet, .12c. ~7 bolts
P4- Wander up towards the final bulge on easy terrain. Boulder out the streaked bulge via a big move or two and some thin edges. A true boulder problem (probably honest v4 or so), to easier terrain. Another thin boulder (v2?) guards the top and a 2 bolt anchor! .12c, ~60 feet. ~7 bolts
Such a rad route! nice work! The first two pitches are well traveled but the last 2 are not. Many people rap after the first 2 pitches but it's worth the extra time to finish.
Walk off to the climbers right. Drink beer and toast to your success.
On the right side of the Shadow Buttress, left of the huge crack system on Absorption 5.9.
15 QD's will do. Long slings or draws are very useful.
|By Aaron Livingston|
From: Moab, UT
Feb 18, 2014
Absolutely amazing climb! A must do at Ibex.