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Routes in Shadow Buttress
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Absorption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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All Around Routine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Licht and Schatten T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Long Shadow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0 |
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Made in the Shade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nose Shadow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shadow of Doubt T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shadow of the Jihad S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | J. Garrett 1996 FFA P2: K. Csizmazia, 1997 P3: C. Harmston, 1997 P4: T. Kemple, 2007 |
| Page Views: | 4,403 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Jonathan Siegrist on Apr 2, 2013 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
A rad outing, up a proud feature. Be prepared for a plethora of climbing terrain and some memorable pitches on quality stone.
P1- Start up the right side of the middle of the Shadow Buttress. You will see bolts beginning about 15 off the deck, leading up a nice slab towards the huge grey roof above. 13 bolts to a nice anchor, 5.11 - techy, thin. ~100 feet
P2- A wild, exposed and pumpy pitch out the grey overhang. You will want either long slings or to skip some of the 19 bolts to avoid crippling rope drag. Super steep, super juggy for the most part. Book claims .12c, could be as easy as .12a (?) depending on your height and climbing preference. Airy!
P3- A hard boulder problem through a bulging crack system begins shortly after leaving the belay. Punchy crux to a wandering slab and finish with an easy wide crack to a mellow belay stance and a 3 bolt anchor. ~80 feet, .12c. ~7 bolts
P4- Wander up towards the final bulge on easy terrain. Boulder out the streaked bulge via a big move or two and some thin edges. A true boulder problem (probably honest v4 or so), to easier terrain. Another thin boulder (v2?) guards the top and a 2 bolt anchor! .12c, ~60 feet. ~7 bolts
Such a rad route! nice work! The first two pitches are well traveled but the last 2 are not. Many people rap after the first 2 pitches but it's worth the extra time to finish.
Walk off to the climbers right. Drink beer and toast to your success.
P1- Start up the right side of the middle of the Shadow Buttress. You will see bolts beginning about 15 off the deck, leading up a nice slab towards the huge grey roof above. 13 bolts to a nice anchor, 5.11 - techy, thin. ~100 feet
P2- A wild, exposed and pumpy pitch out the grey overhang. You will want either long slings or to skip some of the 19 bolts to avoid crippling rope drag. Super steep, super juggy for the most part. Book claims .12c, could be as easy as .12a (?) depending on your height and climbing preference. Airy!
P3- A hard boulder problem through a bulging crack system begins shortly after leaving the belay. Punchy crux to a wandering slab and finish with an easy wide crack to a mellow belay stance and a 3 bolt anchor. ~80 feet, .12c. ~7 bolts
P4- Wander up towards the final bulge on easy terrain. Boulder out the streaked bulge via a big move or two and some thin edges. A true boulder problem (probably honest v4 or so), to easier terrain. Another thin boulder (v2?) guards the top and a 2 bolt anchor! .12c, ~60 feet. ~7 bolts
Such a rad route! nice work! The first two pitches are well traveled but the last 2 are not. Many people rap after the first 2 pitches but it's worth the extra time to finish.
Walk off to the climbers right. Drink beer and toast to your success.
6 Comments