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Westbay Wall
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Billy's Ghost Dance S 
Jason's Bicep S 
Nose in a Day S 

Nose in a Day 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Brian Shelton & Stewart Green
Page Views: 3,249
Submitted By: Anna Moore on Jun 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Gabby climbing the Nose in a Day.

Photo by Steve.

Description 

The 1st two bolts are the same as Billy's Ghost Dance. Once you get past the second bolt, there's a lot of loose rock. It also breaks off pretty easily, so be super gentle on it. After the third bolt, there's a smooth section that goes to the face you have to climb up and over to get to the anchors. The place to stand at the top is really small. We had a tough time having two people up there and still being able to maneuver.

Location 

The route starts the same as Billy's Ghost Dance but instead of continuing straight after the first 2 bolts you head up to the right to the left of the small, pine tree.

Protection 

This is 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The right anchor was loose, the bolt hanger spun a bit but was still secure, the bolt did not move out of the rock at all just moved around. Suggest you just keep a close eye on it.


Photos of Nose in a Day Slideshow Add Photo
Nose in a Day.
Nose in a Day.
11 y.o. Gabby takes on the roof at the end of her first day climbing outdoors. <br /> <br />Photo by daddy Steve.
11 y.o. Gabby takes on the roof at the end of her ...
Locker at the anchors on the little roof at the end. Note the grooves where the rope runs out of frame at the bottom: those are places where top ropes have ground away a runnel of rock. This stuff is really soft.
BETA PHOTO: Locker at the anchors on the little roof at the en...

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By Jim Gloeckler
From: Denver, Colo.
Mar 17, 2010

High first bolt, but easy climbing to get to it. Overall a good route, but I think it felt more like 5.5 than 5.6. Just fun! Anchors seemed fine to me.
By Stewart M. Green
Apr 29, 2010

If you notice in the past few printings of the Red Rock Canyon climbing guide, I did drop the rating on Nose in a Day to 5.5.
By Matt Payne
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 5, 2010

Very fun beginner route!
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 24, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Fantastic route for the grade. A little of everything and love the roof to finish!
By Cody Cook
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2013

And a great route name to go with it. Thanks for everything, Billy. A true climbing legend.
By infiniteforests
From: Durango,CO
Sep 14, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This route is basically worth doing because of the last roof move. Pretty exposed for a route of this grade.
By Cody E
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 14, 2014

Beginner climber here, I like this route a lot. Climbed it once on TR, my second time I got to clean it. It's fun, and the roof is a good, awkward challenge for a noob like me. Great views from atop. Practiced cleaning the TR anchor here today, the rings are pretty badly worn and have some gnarly wearing/grooves worn into them.