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Nose Direct 
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Nose Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type: Trad, 4 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: C.Kirkus, J.Dodd 1930
Page Views: 251
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Dec 7, 2007
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The Hand Traverse. (c) M.Chrysanthou.

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Another classic, and although it's technically graded harder than Diagonal, it's much less intimdating.

1) 50ft 5.6. Bottom of the buttress. Up easy ground to the pedestal, then up and left to a ledge.

2) 90ft 5.7. Diagonally right, then up a leftwards ramp, then a groove to a belay in an alcove.

3) 50ft 5.8. The Hand Traverse. A steep diagonal crack on the right, then up to the ledge.

4) 55ft 5.9. A hard start (crux) up the smooth corner, then up the flake and corner above.


The line of the shallow groove to the left of Diagonal.


Nuts and cams.

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