Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Nose Area

Select Route:
Dum Dee Dum Dum T 
Hyperbola T 
Hyperbola Direct Start T 
Nose, The T 
Peregrine T 
Sensemilia Sunset T 
Southern Crescent T 
Sundial Crack T 

Nose Area  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 114,786
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
Forecast:
Today

57-77°F
Sun

60-75°F
Mon

59-73°F
Tue

51-73°F
Wed

45-72°F
Thu

56-66°F
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!

Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!

Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes established at Looking Glass, the Nose Area is a popular destination because of its namesake route. In addition to the Nose, there are a number of great moderates here, any of which will give you lots of climbing mileage and great exposure.

Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail about a half-mile to end at the base of Sundial Crack. The Nose is a short distance to the left on the cliffline trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nose Area:
Sundial Crack   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 430'   
The Nose   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Peregrine   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Sensemilia Sunset   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 465'   
Hyperbola   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   
Dum Dee Dum Dum   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 230'   
Hyperbola Direct Start   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Southern Crescent   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 350'   
Browse More Classics in Nose Area

Featured Route For Nose Area
Moonrise on Sundial.  Photo by Michael K.

Sundial Crack 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
Although it's not a long sustained splitter crack, this is a really nice route, especially if the Nose is occupied. The crack actually runs for only ~20 ft on the 3rd pitch and is flaring, but protectable. The Lambert/Shull guide rates it 5.8, but I thought it was really mellow for the grade.This description is meant to supplement the Lambert/Shull book. Ratings are from the book.Start: Pretty much where the approach trail meets the rock. Relatively short approach.P1: 5.5 80' Climb up a...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Nose Area Slideshow Add Photo
first pitch 2
first pitch 2
climbing first pitch of the nose
climbing first pitch of the nose
James at the belay point first pitch
James at the belay point first pitch
view from the "parking lot", top of pitc...
view from the "parking lot", top of pitc...

Comments on Nose Area Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!