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Nose Area

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Dum Dee Dum Dum T 
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Nose Area  


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
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Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes established at Looking Glass, the Nose Area is a popular destination because of its namesake route. In addition to the Nose, there are a number of great moderates here, any of which will give you lots of climbing mileage and great exposure.

Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail about a half-mile to end at the base of Sundial Crack. The Nose is a short distance to the left on the cliffline trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nose Area:
Sundial Crack   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 430'   
The Nose   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Peregrine   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Sensemilia Sunset   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 465'   
Hyperbola   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   
Dum Dee Dum Dum   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 230'   
Hyperbola Direct Start   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Nose Area

Featured Route For Nose Area
Mark Willey moving past first crux.

The Nose 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
Pitch 1: Climb low angled ground past numerous eyebrows to a ledge. 5.5, 90'Pitch 2: Climb up to and then along the right angling ramp that is obvious from a distance. 5.8, 100'Pitch 3: From the belay climb straight up the slab. Crux is early on. 5.8, 100'Pitch 4: Climb straight up from the belay or alternately (what I did to bypass a slower party) traverse left onto easier slab. This route is winding and requires a lot more rope, but is significantly easier than the direct version.This route wa...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Nose Area Slideshow Add Photo
first pitch 2
first pitch 2
climbing first pitch of the nose
climbing first pitch of the nose
James at the belay point first pitch
James at the belay point first pitch
view from the "parking lot", top of pitc...
view from the "parking lot", top of pitc...

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