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Nose Area

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Nose Area 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
Forecast:
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Partly Cloudy
71° | 51°
Clear
75° | 56°
Partly Cloudy
74° | 59°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
69° | 58°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
74° | 57°
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Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes established at Looking Glass, the Nose Area is a popular destination because of its namesake route. In addition to the Nose, there are a number of great moderates here, any of which will give you lots of climbing mileage and great exposure.


Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail about a half-mile to end at the base of Sundial Crack. The Nose is a short distance to the left on the cliffline trail.


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nose Area:
Sundial Crack   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 430'   
The Nose   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Peregrine   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Sensemilia Sunset   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 465'   
Hyperbola   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   
Dum Dee Dum Dum   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 230'   
Hyperbola Direct Start   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Nose Area

Featured Route For Nose Area
Hyperbola

Hyperbola 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
This was one of my favorite routes, for the grade, at the Glass. It was originally called Five Easy Pieces by the first ascent party that did it as an aid climb. Sometime afterwards we started calling the route Hyperbola and the name stuck. My recollection of this route is it has a very hairy first pitch that involves some thin, hairball, 5.9 Carolina slab climbing where a fall would not be good for the leader, to reach the base of the arch. To start the route you climb up on some large flakes ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Nose Area Slideshow Add Photo
first pitch 2
first pitch 2
climbing first pitch of the nose
climbing first pitch of the nose
James at the belay point first pitch
James at the belay point first pitch
view from the "parking lot", top of pitch three.
view from the "parking lot", top of pitch three.
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