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Nose Area

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Dum Dee Dum Dum T 
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Nose, The T 
Peregrine T 
Sensemilia Sunset T 
Southern Crescent T 
Sundial Crack T 

Nose Area 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
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Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes established at Looking Glass, the Nose Area is a popular destination because of its namesake route. In addition to the Nose, there are a number of great moderates here, any of which will give you lots of climbing mileage and great exposure.


Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail about a half-mile to end at the base of Sundial Crack. The Nose is a short distance to the left on the cliffline trail.


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nose Area:
Sundial Crack   5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 430'   
The Nose   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Peregrine   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Sensemilia Sunset   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 465'   
Hyperbola   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   
Dum Dee Dum Dum   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 230'   
Hyperbola Direct Start   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Nose Area

Featured Route For Nose Area
Looking down from the top of the finger crack.

Hyperbola Direct Start 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
The direct start is a good variation to the original if you don't feel like 5.9 R slab climbing. Step up on the ledge next to the tree. Pull onto the face up to the first bolt on pretty good holds. You can sling the tree, a flake, or get a bomber yellow #2 C3 in before the first bolt. Pull onto a creaky flake (feels bad but it will hold) Make some hard moves to clip the 2nb bolt and get to the sloper rail. Delicate climbing up to a little horn which feels like a jug at this point get a goo...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Nose Area Slideshow Add Photo
first pitch 2
first pitch 2
climbing first pitch of the nose
climbing first pitch of the nose
James at the belay point first pitch
James at the belay point first pitch
view from the "parking lot", top of pitch three.
view from the "parking lot", top of pitch three.
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