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Snickers - North Face
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Knightshift T 
Mrs. Carvey Danison T 
Norwegian Wood T 
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Way of Life S 

Norwegian Wood 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dag Kolsrud, Trond Ornhei & Hank Levine, December 1978
Page Views: 1,427
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Taken from the top of Norwegian Wood

Description 

This long and varied route, first climbed by a JT local and some visiting Norwegians, starts with a bouldery move onto a ledge and then moves up a right-facing corner with a thin crack that gradually widens as the corner gets steeper. Higher, pass a section with some gritty horizontals (stay left) and continue above in a hand-size crack that turns into an offset fist crack/ow at the top - despite the sound of it good jams can be had in the back and footholds are plentiful making it less of a thrutch than it may seem - the crack narrows at the very top to hands and conludes with a pull onto the level top with a nice view of the desert below. Gear belay and descend by walking off or making a single rope rap (100') off chain anchors about 40' to the right (above Frankenwood).

This is, for the grade, one of the better crack routes in the area with it's varied moves, good rock and length factored in. Don't forget at least one large cam (4") for the top. Three stars out of five.

Location 

Just left of Joyride and Frankenwood.

Protection 

Gear to 4", including wires


Photos of Norwegian Wood Slideshow Add Photo
Windy November day. Pff, let's go do Norwegian Wood!
Windy November day. Pff, let's go do Norwegian Woo...
This route is no match for fancy footwork!
This route is no match for fancy footwork!
Approaching the crux.
Approaching the crux.
Norwegian Wood
BETA PHOTO: Norwegian Wood
AJ passing the horizontals on Frankenwood (5.9), Joshua Tree.
AJ passing the horizontals on Frankenwood (5.9), J...
Beta Shot:  See attentive Belayer!
Beta Shot: See attentive Belayer!
Jonathan Bent on clean lead, at the crux.
Jonathan Bent on clean lead, at the crux.

Comments on Norwegian Wood Add Comment
Show which comments
By Randy
Nov 10, 2003

Nice route, and the crux is definitely the wide section at the very top. Rap off from anchors (100 feet) to the right (above Frankenwood).
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun, varied crack. Thin at the bottom, not thin at the top. One or two bigger cams is useful at the top. Long slings useful. Rap anchors are available about 40 feet climbers-right.
By Drederek
Apr 9, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Led this thinking it was a 5.7 and still believe so but wouldn't quibble with 5.8. a great route!
By kevin trieu
Nov 5, 2009

I did this climb using BD #2 as my biggest gear. You can protect the wide crack section up top using BD C3's on the thin crack on the left of the wide crack.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Apr 25, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Underated. Fun movements on great holds/jams and a good size for Jtree.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 18, 2011

Led this again yesterday after last leading it 15 years ago. Last time I had minimal big gear and thought the crux was at the top. This time I thought the crux was the middle section. Great route with a variety of moves.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 1, 2014

Excellent route with clean continuous crack to the summit. Lower section taking smaller, finger or hand size gear. The obvious upper section takes plenty of big gear old-style #3.5, #4's and #3 Camalot at the lip. Bringing what I though was gobs of large gear and runners I placed all 3 of my larger pieces. The wide-ish crack continues up top, this optional anchor takes large gear so save some left or sling some boulders that are set back aways. If you're a total gamer you can exit early climber's right early to clip the gated shuts for Joyride setting a slingshot TR. Topping out and then trying to get down to them proved to too sketchy for me. YYMV.