|Snickers - North Face
This long and varied route, first climbed by a JT local and some visiting Norwegians, starts with a bouldery move onto a ledge and then moves up a right-facing corner with a thin crack that gradually widens as the corner gets steeper. Higher, pass a section with some gritty horizontals (stay left) and continue above in a hand-size crack that turns into an offset fist crack/ow at the top - despite the sound of it good jams can be had in the back and footholds are plentiful making it less of a thrutch than it may seem - the crack narrows at the very top to hands and conludes with a pull onto the level top with a nice view of the desert below. Gear belay and descend by walking off or making a single rope rap (100') off chain anchors about 40' to the right (above Frankenwood).
This is, for the grade, one of the better crack routes in the area with it's varied moves, good rock and length factored in. Don't forget at least one large cam (4") for the top. Three stars out of five.
Just left of Joyride and Frankenwood.
Gear to 4", including wires
Nov 10, 2003
Nice route, and the crux is definitely the wide section at the very top. Rap off from anchors (100 feet) to the right (above Frankenwood).
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Fun, varied crack. Thin at the bottom, not thin at the top. One or two bigger cams is useful at the top. Long slings useful. Rap anchors are available about 40 feet climbers-right.
Apr 9, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Led this thinking it was a 5.7 and still believe so but wouldn't quibble with 5.8. a great route!
|By kevin trieu|
Nov 5, 2009
I did this climb using BD #2 as my biggest gear. You can protect the wide crack section up top using BD C3's on the thin crack on the left of the wide crack.
|By Ryan Kelly|
Apr 25, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Underated. Fun movements on great holds/jams and a good size for Jtree.
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 18, 2011
Led this again yesterday after last leading it 15 years ago. Last time I had minimal big gear and thought the crux was at the top. This time I thought the crux was the middle section. Great route with a variety of moves.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 1, 2014
Excellent route with clean continuous crack to the summit. Lower section taking smaller, finger or hand size gear. The obvious upper section takes plenty of big gear old-style #3.5, #4's and #3 Camalot at the lip. Bringing what I though was gobs of large gear and runners I placed all 3 of my larger pieces. The wide-ish crack continues up top, this optional anchor takes large gear so save some left or sling some boulders that are set back aways. If you're a total gamer you can exit early climber's right early to clip the gated shuts for Joyride setting a slingshot TR. Topping out and then trying to get down to them proved to too sketchy for me. YYMV.