Northwest Ridge  5.4

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Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1000 feet Consensus:  5.4 [details] FA:  G. Melzi, and G. Zecchini, 1893. Season:  Dry weather Submitted By:  Rodger Raubach on Nov 26, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Looking towards the NW ridge from passo Rolle.

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Description 

Begin on an easy ascending traverse from the scree, diagonalling upwards to the left by following a prominent ledge system, and ultimately reaching the NW ridge proper. Follow the narrow ridge towards the summit, reaching another major ledge system. Follow the distinct ridge/arete to a platform below the startling summit block. Move around onto the North face and then upwards through a 40 meter long steep gully to a low point in the summit ridge. Climb over several blocks to the actual summit.

Descend over the south shoulder, down the "Normalweg," UIAA Gr. II-III to the Rosetta Hut. The funicular may be taken back to San Martino di Castrozza.

Location 

The start of the climb may be reached either from Passo Rolle or San Martino di Castrozza.

Protection 

Mostly fixed anchors. Bring a light widely spaced rack and runners.