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Summit Cliff (The Highlands)
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Boy Who Cried Wolf, The S 
Dr. Dingle S 
Four Seasons S 
Gospel According to Mark, The S 
Karmic Realignment S 
Northern Lights S 
Northwest Passage S 
Passing on the Right TR 
Path of the Righteous S 
Three Bump Dumper S 
Visions of Jerusalem S 
Where the Wild Things Are S 
Yid Kid, The S 

Northwest Passage 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong
Page Views: 358
Submitted By: Ian Wauchope on May 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

From Ward Smith's Guide: "Now bolted, this route is worth the walk. Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). The second pitch follows a prominent dihedral that is highly visible from route 25 under certain light conditions.

Pitch One (5.8) 7 bolts to BB. From the fallen tree, angle up and right, then layback up to a good belay ledge.

Pitch Two (5.11b) 8 bolts to LO. Follow the beautiful right angling corner. Lower back to the belay, then rap to the ground.

Pitch Three Option: climb Northern Lights (5.11a). See separate description.

Location 

Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). A 60M rope will get you down in two raps.

Description 

From Ward Smith's Guide: "Now bolted, this route is worth the walk. Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). The second pitch follows a prominent dihedral that is highly visible from route 25 under certain light conditions.

Pitch One (5.8) 7 bolts to BB. From the fallen tree, angle up and right, then layback up to a good belay ledge.

Pitch Two (5.11b) 8 bolts to LO. Follow the beautiful right angling corner. Lower back to the belay, then rap to the ground.

Pitch Three Option: climb Northern Lights (5.11a). See separate description.

Protection 

The route is entirely fixed, bring 10-12 draws so you have enough for belays. This route, like many in this area, don't get a lot of traffic, so don't expect a line of chalk to guide the way. Also, on pitch 2 I encountered quite a bit of moss on the sides of crimps and incut holds in the corner. With some cleaning it would probably feel more like 11b. That said, I love the fact that these routes force better route finding and also double checking for solid holds.

Location 

Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). A 60M rope will get you down in two raps.

Protection 

The route is entirely fixed, bring 10-12 draws so you have enough for belays. This route, like many in this area, don't get a lot of traffic, so don't expect a line of chalk to guide the way. Also, on pitch 2 I encountered quite a bit of moss on the sides of crimps and incut holds in the corner. With some cleaning it would probably feel more like 11b. That said, I love the fact that these routes force better route finding and also double checking for solid holds.


Comments on Northwest Passage Add Comment
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By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I was able to link the three pitches all the way to the last anchor.
You can lower to the ground if you have a 70 metre rope that has never been cut.
You will barely make it though.