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Wedunett T 

Northwest Passage 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: all year
Page Views: 1,034
Submitted By: Jordan K on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: This is the "Dark Angel" or "The Ghost." Northwes...

Description 

This fun but poorly protected climb moves through the left side of the obvious overhang about 40 feet to the left of The Trough. The crux is moving through the roof. Not for the faint of heart. Anybody feel like adding a bolt or two?


Location 

Start below and on the left side of the arched roof, just to the left of the broad black water stains.


Protection 

3 bolts for the whole route mean the potential for a ground fall. First bolt is 25 feet off the ground, 2nd is just below the roof, and the third is 10-15 past that. 2 rope rap anchors on top.



Photos of Northwest Passage Slideshow Add Photo
Anchor for Northwest Passage.
BETA PHOTO: Anchor for Northwest Passage.
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 19, 2007

This is a fun and spicy route but I have to admit, I haven't led it yet. Nice, delicate moves bring you to the roof. Surpassing this is a real fun move, definitely the crux and I'm sure very heady on lead.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Sep 1, 2007

I guess the start was runnout but the real climbing is fine. I do remember trying to get up the guts to lead this for a while. It was a real thrill when I finally did. Not nearly as bad as the runout might look.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Yes, definitely committing. Although it is runout to the 2nd bolt the holds are large and it is possible to place small gear under the flake. NW Passage used to have a 3-bolt anchor (1/4"ers), below and left of the roof, to protect the crux. The new bolt under the roof is more inspiring, but still requires "intestinal fortitude" to step left and let go of that right hand hold under the arch/roof. In early season the roof seeps and the holds under the arch can be wet. While the addition of another bolt at the crux might let some leaders sleep better at night I don't think solicitting the addition of bolts is appropriate here. If the huevos aren't big enough just TR it.

By Rolf Rybak
From: Vancouver BC
Jan 6, 2013

Did this route in 2012, definitely a mind bender! Old school 5.9. I felt Let it Bleed 5.10b/c was easier.

By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
Apr 14, 2013

Did I read the description to say - anyone want to retro bolt this? You are joking, right?

This is a good route. I think I first did it in 1974. Back then it was considered a bit of a test piece. You had to be somewhat commited to climbing it well. Good training for Weeping Wall climbs.