This route also goes free at 5.12a A0.
P1 - C1+ or 5.12a AO - Follow the first pitch of the West Face route. Starts at 5 bolt ladder.
P2 - C2 or 5.12a - Turn the arete to the left on on bolts leading to the crack of the North Face. Belay at two bolt sling belay. Bolts that lead up right go up the West Face.
P3 - 5.7 C2 or 5.12a - Follow the crack past one bolt to another bolt. From the last bolt begin to hook or free climb right and up into the mouth.
P4 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11b - Follow 5 bolts out the the mouth mantle to ledge, aid off one more bolt then free to the top. Belay at two bolts.
Starts on the west face of the Monkey
Clean aid rack to 2" plus hooks grappling and cliffhanger.
|By Calvin Landrus|
From: Bend, OR
Aug 2, 2011
Pitch two should be rated 11b and pitch three 11d. If pitches two and three are combined then it becomes a long 12a pitch.
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Bend, OR
Mar 5, 2012
This is a killer route! Awesome movement on phenomenal rock all in an amazing position. It doesn't get much better.
P1 free(ish) beta: Stick clip the highest bolt you can on the initial 5 bolt ladder (or climb Sheer Trickery at 12c) and batman up the rope to the beginning of the free climbing. Bring gear from purple Metolius to purple 0.5. (a 0.75 can also be handy) The pin scars take stoppers well and it has a number of bolts, so bring lots of draws. This thing is 35 meters of awesomeness.
If freeing and linking into the N. Face crack, it seems best to step left (around the arete) just before the bolt near the two fingered pocket about two meters before the standard anchor. Some airy, but straight-forward edging on decent rock will bring you to the normal Backbone/N. Face anchor. This avoids what Watts describes as funky lie-backing on old bolts right of the arete, (Watts' version turns the arete roughly where Backbone and N. Face diverge) and is also a good option because your belayer will be able to see you when you're leading the 2nd pitch.
|By Ranger Matt|
From: Yosemite NP
Jan 17, 2014
Great route to keep your aid skills sharp in the off season. Long reach at the start of the 2nd pitch. I'm 6'4" and could barely reach the 2nd bolt. There is a blown out scar a more skilled climber might utilize, other wise I would bring a little cheat stick for that move. Blue/Yellow Metolius offset was the MVP, bring two. Hooking and free climbing at the end of the 3rd wasn't as stressful as I expected. Great solo!