Northwest Face  5.8 A3+ PG13

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 11 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade VI Consensus:  5.8 A3+ [details] FA:  Tom Frost, Royal Robbins 1961 Season:  May-September Submitted By:  Erock on Jan 2, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Early morning start on the Northwest Face of Highe...

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Aid Crux is on pitch 7 and can be somewhat intimidating. This route goes directly up the Northwest face and gets very little sun so bring a jacket, it can get a little chilly on this one. The middle pitches of the climb are the hardest and are composed of moderate to hard aid sections (beaks are your friend on this one). Watch out for loose rock as this route does not get done that often. It has had only 2 ascents in the last three years and one of them was me and Erik Sloan, we cleaned the entire route the best we could and replaced all of the bad bolts. It is an adventurous Yosemite big wall.

Erik Sloan has a free topo on his website of the climb. Check out his site, he has spent many hours making topos for Yosemite Big Walls and provides them for free. Thanks Erik

yosemitebigwall.com

Protection 

Anchors and bolts replaced in May 2010.
10 beaks-2 each #1, 4 each #2 and #3
3 LA's-1 each #2-4
6 angles-3 each 1/2", 5/8"
3 sawed angles-1 of 5/8", 2 each 3/4"
3 heads, 1 each of #2-4
1 set of nuts
1 set of brassies
Cams
3-4 each of .3"-1.25"
2-3 each of 1.5"-3.5"
2-5"
1-8"(optional for chimney)