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Higher Cathedral Spire
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East Corner T 
Northwest Face T 
Regular Route (Higher Cathedral Spire) T 
Southeast Face T 

Northwest Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3+ PG13

Type:  Trad, Aid, 11 pitches, 1200', Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3+ [details]
FA: Tom Frost, Royal Robbins 1961
Season: May-September
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: Eric Foster on Jan 2, 2013

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Early morning start on the Northwest Face of Highe...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Aid Crux is on pitch 7 and can be somewhat intimidating. This route goes directly up the Northwest face and gets very little sun so bring a jacket, it can get a little chilly on this one. The middle pitches of the climb are the hardest and are composed of moderate to hard aid sections (beaks are your friend on this one). Watch out for loose rock as this route does not get done that often. It has had only 2 ascents in the last three years and one of them was me and Erik Sloan, we cleaned the entire route the best we could and replaced all of the bad bolts. It is an adventurous Yosemite big wall.

Erik Sloan has a free topo on his website of the climb. Check out his site, he has spent many hours making topos for Yosemite Big Walls and provides them for free. Thanks Erik


Anchors and bolts replaced in May 2010.
10 beaks-2 each #1, 4 each #2 and #3
3 LA's-1 each #2-4
6 angles-3 each 1/2", 5/8"
3 sawed angles-1 of 5/8", 2 each 3/4"
3 heads, 1 each of #2-4
1 set of nuts
1 set of brassies
3-4 each of .3"-1.25"
2-3 each of 1.5"-3.5"
1-8"(optional for chimney)

Comments on Northwest Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Dillon
Jan 5, 2013

How 'bout that Chimney of Horrors? Tell me you replaced the rust stain.
By Eric Foster
Mar 8, 2015

Yes I am pretty sure those were changed out. There were some pretty bad anchors there.

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