2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The Northwest Face is on the right-hand side of the north face, and is relatively untouched, with moss, lichen, and loose rock.
There is one old trad route here (Northwest Ridge) that was first climbed many years ago, but doesn't see much traffic from climbers today.
The only documented route in this area:
35. Northwest Ridge, 6, 3p, gear. Adventure route to the summit of the tower.
This side of the crag can only be accessed when the water level in the creek is low enough to hop rocks or wade. From the Boulder Falls parking area, hike upstream until you are at the west end of the north face. Go down to the creek and find a spot to hop rocks or wade. Cross the creek and go up a short, steep gully with a broken tree just west of the north face. The Northwest Ridge route begins about 75' up this gully.
This approach takes about 10 minutes (if you can get across the creek).
The climb begins on the rounded, northwest ridge, which is accessed from the creek crossing via a short, steep gully with a broken tree in it. Three pitches of moderate and obvious crack climbing on the northwest rib attains the short summit block. While there is loose rock on the ledges, the route itself is pretty clean and well protected with a standard rack, and climbs much like a steep flatiron. Note that the entrance moves on the first pitch have some moss, but it is clean the rest of th...[more]Browse More Classics in CO