This route is a corner/crack system near the NW corner of the Finger Flatiron. Approach via the Mallory Cave trail and then cut up west on the Box Alley Trail after crossing under the Finger Flatiron and The Hand. These switchbacks will lead you to the back edge of the Finger flatiron. There is an obvious set of two left-facing corners just 30 downhill/East of the West most point of the North face, between the route 'Patience' and 'Nude Figures In a Hollow Fruit.' The Northwest Corner is the right-most (west) of these two cracks.
Climb up and left into the first crack, then undercling further up and left under a bulge with small feet and some fingerlocks to where the crack goes vertical in a 1.5" splitter. Up top, some large bouders provide a feature or two to sling for a belay, or you can set gear for anchors.
To descend, climb to the summit (easy 3rd class) and rap from many fixed slings.
Nuts and cams from .5 to 2 inches.If you climb to the North edge along the East Face, you can find this system and set a top-rope, if you like.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2006
I did this line again on Friday, and it occurred to me that the climb is better than it looks. Though only the top 1/2 is truly "good," it is VERY good. Too bad it does not have 100' of climbing like that. Worth a visit.
As well, it occurred to me that a good direcion to this climb is to say "immediately left of the place you land after rapping from the summit."