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Northwest Face
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Northwest Books 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Warren Harding and Frank de Saussure, 1954
Season: Late Spring to Early Fall
Page Views: 5,947
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Sep 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (129)
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"forgot my climbing shoes"

Description 

This is a great climb for the grade on Lembert Dome. The first pitch is the meat and potatoes of the climb with a fun 5.6 lieback section.

P1: 5.6 (or 5.9 variation). Start up a 3rd class ramp and belay at a thick shrub / small tree (whatever you want to call it). There is a good bolt that protects the face friction to gain the corner / lieback about 15' from the belay shrub. Then follow the lieback up to some broken ledges until you reach another belay shrub. Avoid the steep crack that looks harder than 5.6 (5.9) or charge up it with good pro.

P2: 5.6 or less. Continue up the broken ledges and up a short crack that accepts wider pro. Finish near the lip with a gear anchor wherever is convenient.

Walk off right to gain the upper sloping section of Lembert, then follow it down the backside on the easiest path pack to the parking lot. No real downclimbing required and pretty easy (unless wet).


Location 

The first route on the Northwest Face of Lembert Dome when approaching from the parking area. Ascends the obvious broken section just right from where the wall turns very steep.


Protection 

Tree/shrub anchor for belay 1,2, and gear anchor for the top.

Cams to 2.5" (optional #3&4, not really necessary)
set of nuts
long slings



Photos of Northwest Books Slideshow Add Photo
At the top ledge! Amazing view!
At the top ledge! Amazing view!
Jake (15) starting up the 5.9 variation on his first multipitch lead.  This section actually looks easier than it is.
BETA PHOTO: Jake (15) starting up the 5.9 variation on his fir...
NWB Route map
BETA PHOTO: NWB Route map
walking up the easy approach slabs...
walking up the easy approach slabs...
Tradmeister Mark Landreth on NW Books
Tradmeister Mark Landreth on NW Books
Tristan at the start of pitch 1
Tristan at the start of pitch 1
Don sitting on the summit ledges
Don sitting on the summit ledges
The start of the easy walk up to the first belay station.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the easy walk up to the first belay s...
Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Tristan laughing at the big ledge on pitch two
Tristan laughing at the big ledge on pitch two
Starting up pitch 3 from optional second belay.
Starting up pitch 3 from optional second belay.
NW Books
NW Books
Looking down at the middle belay from the top belay. <br /> <br />Photo by David Poulsen
Looking down at the middle belay from the top bela...
chillin' at the top after some slabby walking
chillin' at the top after some slabby walking
Comments on Northwest Books Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 25, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

This is a good route worth doing if you don't have much time and want to get in a few more pitches. The 5.9 variation (on pitch 1) mentioned is short, well-protected and seemed the logical way to go as I recall.

By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

A terrific way to zip up Lembert Dome in time for a glorious Tuolumne sunset!

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Sep 21, 2009

How hard is the Orange spot variation? Is there any gear? Looks like a better way to finish, but I didn't want to risk it...

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 14, 2010

The 5.9 variation is fun and recommended.

By Angie C
From: Sacramento, Ca
Aug 20, 2012

I highly recommend the 5.9 variation on the second pitch. I do not think I would have enjoyed this route so much with out it. The views are great.

Regarding the walk off, if you cut right too soon, the third class walk off turns into fourth class, which I found to be unfortunately stressful at the end of a climbing day.

By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 11, 2012

This was my first Harding route. Great time. Do the 5.9 variation.

By Coco Bell
Aug 29, 2013

One of the oldest routes in the Meadows, just imagine!! A great introductory climb with a little bit of everything.

By Stevee B
5 days ago

Did the 5.9 in approach shoes when my partner mistakenly lead partway up it then freaked. Good times.