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This is a great climb for the grade on Lembert Dome. The first pitch is the meat and potatoes of the climb with a fun 5.6 lieback section.
P1: 5.6 (or 5.9 variation). Start up a 3rd class ramp and belay at a thick shrub / small tree (whatever you want to call it). There is a good bolt that protects the face friction to gain the corner / lieback about 15' from the belay shrub. Then follow the lieback up to some broken ledges until you reach another belay shrub. Avoid the steep crack that looks harder than 5.6 (5.9) or charge up it with good pro.
P2: 5.6 or less. Continue up the broken ledges and up a short crack that accepts wider pro. Finish near the lip with a gear anchor wherever is convenient.
Walk off right to gain the upper sloping section of Lembert, then follow it down the backside on the easiest path pack to the parking lot. No real downclimbing required and pretty easy (unless wet).
The first route on the Northwest Face of Lembert Dome when approaching from the parking area. Ascends the obvious broken section just right from where the wall turns very steep.
Tree/shrub anchor for belay 1,2, and gear anchor for the top.
Cams to 2.5" (optional #3&4, not really necessary)
set of nuts
Don sitting on the summit ledges
BETA PHOTO: NWB Route map
Tradmeister Mark Landreth on NW Books
Tristan at the start of pitch 1
Tristan laughing at the big ledge on pitch two
Starting up pitch 3 from optional second belay.
"forgot my climbing shoes"
walking up the easy approach slabs...
At the top ledge! Amazing view!
BETA PHOTO: The start of the easy walk up to the first belay s...
BETA PHOTO: Jake (15) starting up the 5.9 variation on his fir...
|Comments on Northwest Books
|By C Miller|
Sep 25, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
This is a good route worth doing if you don't have much time and want to get in a few more pitches. The 5.9 variation (on pitch 1) mentioned is short, well-protected and seemed the logical way to go as I recall.
|By Greg DeMatteo|
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
A terrific way to zip up Lembert Dome in time for a glorious Tuolumne sunset!
|By Mark Roth|
Sep 21, 2009
How hard is the Orange spot variation? Is there any gear? Looks like a better way to finish, but I didn't want to risk it...
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 14, 2010
The 5.9 variation is fun and recommended.
|By Angie C|
From: Sacramento, Ca
Aug 20, 2012
I highly recommend the 5.9 variation on the second pitch. I do not think I would have enjoyed this route so much with out it. The views are great.
Regarding the walk off, if you cut right too soon, the third class walk off turns into fourth class, which I found to be unfortunately stressful at the end of a climbing day.
|By Ryan Myers|
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 11, 2012
This was my first Harding route. Great time. Do the 5.9 variation.
|By Cori Bellis|
Aug 29, 2013
One of the oldest routes in the Meadows, just imagine!! A great introductory climb with a little bit of everything.