Northumberland Crack  5.9+

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Bob Culp and George Hurley, 1965. Fixed Hardware:  1 Lead Bolt [details] Submitted By:  Ron Olsen on Nov 1, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Northumberland Crack, showing most of the second a...

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

If you've done Sunstar and The Roof Wall and want a little more adventure, check out Northumberland Crack. The crack on the second pitch is challenging and exposed. There's some loose rock and lichen, but also some high-quality climbing.

Start about 60' left of the Sunstar chimney. Look for a large block with two trees. Scramble up the block from the right and belay just left of the highest tree.

P1. 5.7, 150'. Climb straight up flakes and cracks aiming for a tree directly above. Watch for loose rock. Pass the tree on the left and climb to a rotten ramp. Traverse left on the ramp to a good belay spot about 30' left of the crack and roof on the second pitch.

P2. 5.9+, 100'. Traverse 30' right on a 3'-wide ledge back towards the crack. Climb up and right to a bolt about 10' below the roof. This is not a good belay spot, so continue on. Climb up to the roof and place a #4 Camalot in the wide crack. You can slide this piece up or place a second #4 Camalot a little higher. Make some strenuous moves to pass the lip of the roof (9+).

The fun isn't over: a few more wide-crack moves get you to a stance where you can finally rest. I belayed here.If you still have a #4 Camalot, you can continue up a flared chimney and belay at a ledge with a tree about 40' higher.

P3. 5.7, 100'. Climb the flared chimney (7; #4 Camalot for pro) to a ledge with a tree. Pass the tree on the left and continue up a steep wall with jugs (6) to the top.

The views from the top are great: Rewritten and The Yellow Spur really stand out.

Descend via the same descent as for Rewritten, The Green Spur, etc. Head north to a notch (follow cairns) and scramble down to the trail.

Protection 

Standard Eldo rack with extra large cams: two #2, two #3, and two #4 Camalots useful.

Photos of Northumberland Crack Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Northumberland Crack, second pitch. Traverse righ...	BETA PHOTO: The crux wide crack through the roof. Bring a @POU...	Mike starting up the first pitch. When he gets to...
Mike climbing the flared chimney at the start of o...	The final steep wall at the top of the climb. Gre...	BETA PHOTO: The route climbs the cleft and roof crack on the r...
Crawl across "Thank God" ledge, make a scary step ...	Starting the physical crux, not the mental crux, s...	Another shot of the start of the roof....
Looking down from above the crux.	Near the top of the second pitch (if done as three...